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Publications (10 of 84) Show all publications
Wallenberg, L. (2025). ‘Fashionably Anita’: Complying with and Resisting the Vestimentary System. In: Richard Dyer; Tytti Soila; Ann-Kristin Wallgren (Ed.), Anita Ekberg: International Blonde. Edinburgh: Edinburgh University Press
Open this publication in new window or tab >>‘Fashionably Anita’: Complying with and Resisting the Vestimentary System
2025 (English)In: Anita Ekberg: International Blonde / [ed] Richard Dyer; Tytti Soila; Ann-Kristin Wallgren, Edinburgh: Edinburgh University Press, 2025Chapter in book (Refereed)
Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
Edinburgh: Edinburgh University Press, 2025
Keywords
Anita Ekberg, fashion, vestimentary system, celebrity status, resistance
National Category
Film Studies
Research subject
Cinema Studies; Gender Studies; Fashion Studies
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:su:diva-227397 (URN)9781399532174 (ISBN)
Available from: 2025-06-11 Created: 2025-06-11 Last updated: 2025-06-13Bibliographically approved
Koskinen, M. & Wallenberg, L. (2025). Ingmar Bergman and the Importance of Being Superficial: Fashion, Style, and the Auteur as Celebrity. In: Daniel Humphrey, Hamish Ford (Ed.), A Companion to Ingmar Bergman: (pp. 217-229). John Wiley & Sons
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Ingmar Bergman and the Importance of Being Superficial: Fashion, Style, and the Auteur as Celebrity
2025 (English)In: A Companion to Ingmar Bergman / [ed] Daniel Humphrey, Hamish Ford, John Wiley & Sons, 2025, p. 217-229Chapter in book (Refereed)
Abstract [en]

It is hardly controversial to state that Ingmar Bergman is still almost exclusively defined as an art filmmaker and auteur in Sweden and, especially, beyond. This chapter focuses on some particular issues and areas that have largely fallen by the wayside within Bergman scholarship, in large part due to the historical, accumulative impact of auteurist approaches, and that arguably form the very antithesis of what is generally associated with Bergman – notably, popularity, fashion, superficiality. In this context, it is of no small interest that Bergman so skilfully, and well before the existence of professional public relations people and other spin doctors, was able to manipulate journalists at will, almost as a one-man show, literally directing them as if they were players on stage. If Bergman can be regarded as a celebrity, then gossip is a viable and necessary object of study.

Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
John Wiley & Sons, 2025
Keywords
Auteur, Celebrity, Fashion, Ingmar Bergman, Popularity, Spin doctors, Superficiality
National Category
Film Studies
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:su:diva-240182 (URN)10.1002/9781119886709.ch14 (DOI)2-s2.0-85216660029 (Scopus ID)9781119886662 (ISBN)9781119886709 (ISBN)
Available from: 2025-03-04 Created: 2025-03-04 Last updated: 2025-03-04Bibliographically approved
Wallenberg, L. (2025). Representing women: on women’s experiences, work and strategies in the Swedish film industry. In: Sue Williamson et al (Ed.), Research Handbook on Gender and Employment Relations: . Chatnam: Edward Elgar Publishing
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Representing women: on women’s experiences, work and strategies in the Swedish film industry
2025 (English)In: Research Handbook on Gender and Employment Relations / [ed] Sue Williamson et al, Chatnam: Edward Elgar Publishing, 2025Chapter in book (Refereed)
Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
Chatnam: Edward Elgar Publishing, 2025
Keywords
Employment relations, gender, Swedish film industry
National Category
Film Studies
Research subject
Gender Studies; Cinema Studies
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:su:diva-227395 (URN)9781035302550 (ISBN)
Available from: 2025-06-11 Created: 2025-06-11 Last updated: 2025-06-13Bibliographically approved
Wallenberg, L. & Kollnitz, A. (Eds.). (2023). Fashion Aesthetics and Ethics Past and Present. London: Bloomsbury Academic
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Fashion Aesthetics and Ethics Past and Present
2023 (English)Collection (editor) (Refereed)
Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
London: Bloomsbury Academic, 2023. p. 270
Keywords
Fashion, Aesthetics, Ethics
National Category
Design
Research subject
Fashion Studies
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:su:diva-216529 (URN)10.5040/9781350198562 (DOI)2-s2.0-85186063256 (Scopus ID)978-1-3501-9853-1 (ISBN)978-1-3501-9856-2 (ISBN)
Available from: 2023-04-18 Created: 2023-04-18 Last updated: 2025-02-24Bibliographically approved
Wallenberg, L. (2023). Fashion and Feminism. In: Véronique Pouillard; Vincent Dubé-Senécal (Ed.), Routledge History of Fashion and Dress, 1800 to the present: . London: Routledge
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Fashion and Feminism
2023 (English)In: Routledge History of Fashion and Dress, 1800 to the present / [ed] Véronique Pouillard; Vincent Dubé-Senécal, London: Routledge, 2023Chapter in book (Refereed)
Abstract [en]

Feminism and fashion are intimately connected in a myriad of ways: through their ethics and aesthetics (or their lack thereof); their urge to affect the status quo; their preformativity; and their “obsession” with gender. They also share a mutual history, with women's demands for economic, social, and political equality emerging alongside fashion becoming “democratized.” This chapter offers first a historical account of the relationship between the two, starting with a discussion of the critique of fashion which was articulated by the suffragette movement and how, at the same time, fashion came to play an important role for creating acceptance of that same movement. The chapter then discusses fashion's role for women's emancipation in the twentieth century, all while including a discussion of how fashion was critiqued by second and third wave feminists as embodied imprisonment and how fashion came to be “defended” by feminst fashion scholars at the end of that century. Finally, the chapter tries to offer an analysis of what fashion and feminism can “do for each other” at a point in time when the fashion industry is under severe pressure, and also, at a time when identity and feminist politics are being attacked from anti-democratic and extreme right-wing corners.

Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
London: Routledge, 2023
Keywords
Fashion, feminism
National Category
Gender Studies Design
Research subject
Fashion Studies; Gender Studies
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:su:diva-227399 (URN)10.4324/9780429295607-13 (DOI)2-s2.0-85178639985 (Scopus ID)9780367272227 (ISBN)9780429295607 (ISBN)
Available from: 2024-03-13 Created: 2024-03-13 Last updated: 2025-02-24Bibliographically approved
Jansson, M. & Wallenberg, L. (2023). “I am Mature and Established. There is No Success in That”: On Gendered Ageism in the Swedish Film Industry. In: Susan Liddy (Ed.), Women, Ageing and the Screen Industries: Falling off a Cliff? (pp. 41-59). Cham: Palgrave Macmillan
Open this publication in new window or tab >>“I am Mature and Established. There is No Success in That”: On Gendered Ageism in the Swedish Film Industry
2023 (English)In: Women, Ageing and the Screen Industries: Falling off a Cliff? / [ed] Susan Liddy, Cham: Palgrave Macmillan, 2023, p. 41-59Chapter in book (Refereed)
Abstract [en]

How issues of gender equality intertwine with age in the film industry is seldom addressed in studies focussing on film and gender equality behind the camera. It is symptomatic that when a recent gender equality report from the Swedish Film Institute (SFI, Vilka kvinnor? Jämställdhetsrapport 2019/20, https://www.filminstitutet.se/globalassets/_dokument/rapporter/vilka_kvinnor_jamstalldhetsrapport-2019-2020.pdf, 2020) set out to discuss age, the focus is on women actors “falling off the cliff” at the age of 40—as put by Gena Davies. This chapter presents a study based on qualitative interviews with women of various ages working behind the camera in the Swedish film industry. We discuss how these women speak about age and analyse their experiences using the concept of gendered ageism. A particular emphasis is put on two of Sweden’s most famous women directors, with major successes in the 1980s and 1990s—Suzanne Osten and Christina Olofson. This chapter also provides a more general discussion about how women of various ages reproduce a distinction between young and promising and mature and professional in their narration of how gendered age plays into their working conditions.

Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
Cham: Palgrave Macmillan, 2023
Keywords
Christina Olofson, Gendered ageism, Qualitative interviews, Suzanne Osten, Work life experiences
National Category
Gender Studies Studies on Film
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:su:diva-234947 (URN)10.1007/978-3-031-18385-0_3 (DOI)2-s2.0-85169382281 (Scopus ID)978-3-031-18384-3 (ISBN)978-3-031-18385-0 (ISBN)
Available from: 2024-10-30 Created: 2024-10-30 Last updated: 2024-10-30Bibliographically approved
Wallenberg, L. & Kollnitz, A. (2023). Introduction. In: Louise Wallenberg; Andrea Kollnitz (Ed.), Fashion Aesthetics and Ethics: Past and Present. London: Bloomsbury Visual Arts
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Introduction
2023 (English)In: Fashion Aesthetics and Ethics: Past and Present / [ed] Louise Wallenberg; Andrea Kollnitz, London: Bloomsbury Visual Arts , 2023Chapter in book (Other academic)
Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
London: Bloomsbury Visual Arts, 2023
National Category
Design
Research subject
Fashion Studies
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:su:diva-233730 (URN)10.5040/9781350198562.0007 (DOI)2-s2.0-85186002899 (Scopus ID)978-1-3501-9853-1 (ISBN)
Available from: 2024-09-24 Created: 2024-09-24 Last updated: 2025-02-24Bibliographically approved
Wallenberg, L., Papadopoulou, F., Koskinen, M. & Soila, T. (2023). Now About All These Women in the Swedish Film Industry. New York: Bloomsbury Academic
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Now About All These Women in the Swedish Film Industry
2023 (English)Book (Refereed)
Abstract [en]

In the aftermath of the MeToo movement, during an ongoing pandemic, and in the midst of repeated demands for a 50/50 split between men and women in above-the-line positions, this book analyzes and interrogates the politics of gender focusing on the Swedish film industry, often considered to be the most "gender equal" film industry worldwide. While this gender equality (with a considerable proportion of women behind the camera) is much due to policies carried out of the state funded Swedish Film Institute, women filmmakers in Sweden still struggle with the same problems as do women in other national film industries. These problems entail having smaller production and distribution budgets than men and working in an environment involving recurring scandals of gender discrimination and sexual harassment.

This open access book looks behind the statistics and explores the often complex cultural, legal, and political conditions under which women have entered a male-dominated industry and discusses women’s strategies and efforts to promote change while providing evidence on how women’s presence has challenged the industry by provoking critical reactions and introducing new ways to portray women on screen. Using a wide range of different sources (e.g. archival material, laws, contracts, films, biographical materials, and interviews), the book tells the history of the rise of gender equality efforts undertaken by the Swedish Film Institute and investigates women’s possibilities to manage the rights to their work. It offers compelling portraits of pioneering women who have worked in or in relation to the industry and looks at the experiences of women currently working in the film industry

Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
New York: Bloomsbury Academic, 2023. p. 230
National Category
Studies on Film
Research subject
Cinema Studies
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:su:diva-216247 (URN)10.5040/9781501366185 (DOI)978-1-5013-6621-5 (ISBN)978-1-5013-6619-2 (ISBN)978-1-5013-6620-8 (ISBN)
Projects
Women in Film, Riksbankens Jubileumsfond
Funder
Riksbankens Jubileumsfond
Available from: 2023-04-10 Created: 2023-04-10 Last updated: 2024-09-05Bibliographically approved
Wallenberg, L. (2023). Redaktörens glädje: Att tala och skriva fram en bok tillsammans. In: Trygve Carlsson (Ed.), Boken om boken: I bildat sällskap under fyra decennier. Stockholm: Carlsson Bokförlag
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Redaktörens glädje: Att tala och skriva fram en bok tillsammans
2023 (Swedish)In: Boken om boken: I bildat sällskap under fyra decennier / [ed] Trygve Carlsson, Stockholm: Carlsson Bokförlag, 2023Chapter in book (Other (popular science, discussion, etc.))
Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
Stockholm: Carlsson Bokförlag, 2023
National Category
Specific Literatures
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:su:diva-228466 (URN)9789189826076 (ISBN)
Available from: 2024-04-18 Created: 2024-04-18 Last updated: 2024-09-19Bibliographically approved
Wallenberg, L. & Thanem, T. (2023). The Cost of Looking Good: Ethics and Aesthetics in the Fashion Industry. In: Louie Wallenberg; Andrea Kollnitz (Ed.), Fashion Aesthetics and Ethics: Past and Present (pp. 109-120). London: Bloomsbury Academic
Open this publication in new window or tab >>The Cost of Looking Good: Ethics and Aesthetics in the Fashion Industry
2023 (English)In: Fashion Aesthetics and Ethics: Past and Present / [ed] Louie Wallenberg; Andrea Kollnitz, London: Bloomsbury Academic, 2023, p. 109-120Chapter in book (Refereed)
Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
London: Bloomsbury Academic, 2023
Keywords
Ethics, fashion industry, modeling industry, work conditions, exploitation
National Category
Other Humanities not elsewhere specified
Research subject
Fashion Studies
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:su:diva-227400 (URN)10.5040/9781350198562.ch-005 (DOI)2-s2.0-85185990579 (Scopus ID)978-1-3501-9853-1 (ISBN)978-1-3501-9856-2 (ISBN)
Available from: 2024-03-13 Created: 2024-03-13 Last updated: 2024-12-09Bibliographically approved
Organisations
Identifiers
ORCID iD: ORCID iD iconorcid.org/0000-0002-8389-5908

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