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McNeil, Peter
Publications (10 of 69) Show all publications
McNeil, P. (Ed.). (2017). A cultural history of dress and fashion in the age of Enlightenment. London: Bloomsbury Academic
Open this publication in new window or tab >>A cultural history of dress and fashion in the age of Enlightenment
2017 (English)Collection (editor) (Refereed)
Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
London: Bloomsbury Academic, 2017. p. 268
Series
A cultural history of dress and fashion ; 4
National Category
Cultural Studies
Research subject
Art History; Fashion Studies; Aesthetics
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:su:diva-134492 (URN)9780857857613 (ISBN)
Funder
EU, European Research Council
Note

A cultural history of dress and fashion: A Cultural Account of Desire, Delight and Disgust in Fashion, Food and Art, ISBN: 9781472557490 (set, v. 1-6), general editor: Susan J. Vincent.

Available from: 2016-10-08 Created: 2016-10-08 Last updated: 2022-02-28Bibliographically approved
McNeil, P. (2017). 'Beauty in Search of Knowledge': Eighteenth-Century Fashion and the World of Print. In: Evelyn Welch (Ed.), Fashioning the Early Modern: Dress, Textiles, and Innovation in Europe, 1500-1800. Oxford: Oxford University Press
Open this publication in new window or tab >>'Beauty in Search of Knowledge': Eighteenth-Century Fashion and the World of Print
2017 (English)In: Fashioning the Early Modern: Dress, Textiles, and Innovation in Europe, 1500-1800 / [ed] Evelyn Welch, Oxford: Oxford University Press, 2017Chapter in book (Refereed)
Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
Oxford: Oxford University Press, 2017
Series
Pasold Studies in Textile History
National Category
Art History
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:su:diva-99987 (URN)9780198738176 (ISBN)
Funder
EU, European Research Council, 09-HERA-JRP-CI-FP-030
Available from: 2014-01-23 Created: 2014-01-23 Last updated: 2022-02-24Bibliographically approved
McNeil, P. (2016). 'Despots of Elegance': Mens Fashion 1715-1910. In: Sharon Sadako Takeda, Kaye Durland Spilker, Clarissa M. Esguerra (Ed.), Reigning Men: Fashion in Menswear, 1715-2015. Prestel
Open this publication in new window or tab >>'Despots of Elegance': Mens Fashion 1715-1910
2016 (English)In: Reigning Men: Fashion in Menswear, 1715-2015 / [ed] Sharon Sadako Takeda, Kaye Durland Spilker, Clarissa M. Esguerra, Prestel , 2016Chapter in book (Refereed)
Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
Prestel, 2016
National Category
Cultural Studies
Research subject
Fashion Studies
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:su:diva-134497 (URN)9783791355207 (ISBN)
Note

Exhibition at L.A. County Museum of Art, April 10 - August 21, 2016.

Available from: 2016-10-08 Created: 2016-10-08 Last updated: 2022-02-28Bibliographically approved
McNeil, P. (2016). 'Everything degenerates': The Queer Buttonhole. In: I. Kranz, A. Schwan, E. Wittrock (Ed.), The Languages of Flowers: Media of Floral Communication (pp. 1-2). Berlin: Wilhelm Fink Verlag
Open this publication in new window or tab >>'Everything degenerates': The Queer Buttonhole
2016 (English)In: The Languages of Flowers: Media of Floral Communication / [ed] I. Kranz, A. Schwan, E. Wittrock, Berlin: Wilhelm Fink Verlag, 2016, p. 1-2Chapter in book (Refereed)
Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
Berlin: Wilhelm Fink Verlag, 2016
Keywords
Fashion Studies, queer studies, cultural history, botanical knowledge
National Category
Cultural Studies
Research subject
Fashion Studies
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:su:diva-134493 (URN)10.30965/9783846759943_019 (DOI)9783846759943 (ISBN)
Available from: 2016-10-08 Created: 2016-10-08 Last updated: 2023-03-16Bibliographically approved
McNeil, P. & Riello, G. (2016). Luxury: a Rich History. Oxford: Oxford University Press
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Luxury: a Rich History
2016 (English)Book (Refereed)
Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
Oxford: Oxford University Press, 2016. p. 351
Keywords
luxury, material culture, consumption, consumer behaviour from the ancient world to the present day
National Category
Art History
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:su:diva-100031 (URN)9780199663248 (ISBN)
Available from: 2014-01-24 Created: 2014-01-24 Last updated: 2022-02-24Bibliographically approved
Borkopp-Restle, B., McNeil, P., Martinetti, S., Miller, L. & Riello, G. (2016). Museums and the Making of Textile Histories: Past, Present, and Future. Perspective (1), 43-60
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Museums and the Making of Textile Histories: Past, Present, and Future
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2016 (English)In: Perspective, ISSN 1777-7852, no 1, p. 43-60Article in journal (Refereed) Published
Abstract [fr]

Nombre de musées différents collectionnent et préservent les textiles, et collectent les données les concernant. Ils les interprètent également par le biais d’expositions temporaires ou semi permanentes, de publications et d’interventions sur des sites web. Ces interprétations se présentent isolément, ou sont parfois inscrites dans un cadre plus large qui englobe l’histoire de l’art et du design, la science et la technologie, ou encore l’histoire sociale et l’anthropologie, l’histoire locale et les cultures du monde (types de textiles et approches utilisées dans les grandes capitales de la mode – Londres, Paris, Milan, New York – possédant une longue tradition de production et de consommation textile, ou dans des villes manufacturières telles que Krefeld, Lyon ou Manchester, par exemple). Malgré tout, les événements organisés autour des textiles attirent rarement l’attention du grand public ou les éloges de la critique – hormis peut-être certaines expositions novatrices telles que celles organisées par Jean-Paul Leclercq (« Jouer la lumière », Paris, Les Arts décoratifs, Musée de la Mode et du textile, 2001), Thomas P. Campbell, (« Tapestry in the Renaissance: Art and Magnificence, New York, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2002), Amelia Peck et al. (« Interwoven Globe : The Worldwide Textile Trade, 1500-1800 », New York, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2013-2014), ou John Styles (« Threads of Feeling », Londres, The Foundling Hospital, 2010-2011/Colonial Williamsburg, 2014). Cette discussion vise à tirer parti des différentes expériences culturelles des participants et des diverses formations disciplinaires qu’ils incarnent :- Encourager le débat sur le rôle joué par les musées en matière de fabrication et de représentation de l’histoire des textiles. Les musées ne sont pas simplement dépositaires d’objets textiles : ils écrivent aussi leur histoire, qu’elle soit universitaire ou grand public, par le biais d’expositions et de publications. Comment ce travail s’articule-t-il avec la recherche universitaire et le partage des connaissances ? Tient-il compte des nouveaux apports de la recherche et alimente-t-il celle-ci ? Comment faire évoluer à l’avenir les échanges entre musées et universités dans différentes régions et cultures du monde ? - Déterminer quels musées font preuve d’innovation (à l’échelle locale, régionale, nationale et internationale). En quoi consistent ces innovations, et peuvent-elle contribuer à déterminer de futures orientations, notamment en matière de collection et d’interprétation ? Par interprétation, il faut entendre ici tout type d’explication sous forme numérique ou analogique fournie pour contextualiser les œuvres exposées. - Il est difficile, désormais, d’affirmer que seuls les historiens de l’art sont à même de proposer une étude dynamique des objets datant de la période post 1500, et l’intérêt quasi exclusif porté jusqu’ici aux textiles attachés à la tradition bien établie de la collection d’amateur d’art (essentiellement les tentures et tapisseries répondant à des commandes de prestige) est aujourd’hui remis en question par l’adoption d’approches plus globales par les historiens et les spécialistes de l’histoire du design et de la culture matérielle.

Keywords
textile, history, fashion, exhibition, publication, museum, display, collection, catalog, research, university, material culture, tessile, storia, moda, mostra, pubblicazione, museo, esposizione, collezione, catalogo, ricerca, università, cultura materiale, textile, histoire, mode, exposition, publication, musée, accrochage, collection, catalogue, recherche, université, culture matérielle
National Category
Other Humanities not elsewhere specified
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:su:diva-176164 (URN)10.4000/perspective.6297 (DOI)000424990900007 ()
Note

Titel på franska:

Les musées et la fabrication d’histoires du textile: passé, présent, futur

Available from: 2019-12-05 Created: 2019-12-05 Last updated: 2022-02-26Bibliographically approved
McNeil, P. (2015). Ideology, Fashion and the Darlys’ "Macaroni" Prints. In: Shoshana-Rose Marzel and Guy Stiebel (Ed.), Dress and Ideology: Fashioning Identity from Antiquity to the Present (pp. 111-136). Bloomsbury Academic
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Ideology, Fashion and the Darlys’ "Macaroni" Prints
2015 (English)In: Dress and Ideology: Fashioning Identity from Antiquity to the Present / [ed] Shoshana-Rose Marzel and Guy Stiebel, Bloomsbury Academic, 2015, p. 111-136Chapter in book (Refereed)
Abstract [en]

As John B. Thompson notes, the concept and theory of ideology ‘first appeared in late eighteenth-century France’ via the thinking of the PhilosopheDestutt de Tracy[1] and has come to mean ‘systems of thought’, ‘systems of belief’ or ‘symbolic systems’ which pertain to social action or political practice’.[2] Central to the study of ideology is the rise of ‘mass communication’ and its relationship with the state. Writing mainly regarding the influential role of the press in twentieth-century life, Thompson acknowledges its seventeenth and eighteenth century precursive forms and remarks that ‘[t]he reproducibility of symbolic forms is one of the key characteristics that underlies the commercial exploitation of technical media by institutions of mass communication, and the commodification of symbolic forms which these institutions pursue and promote’.[3]If ideology is promulgated by and within mass communication and viewing positions, how then are we to interpret the matter of looking at an eighteenth-century caricature? How might an ideological effect work within what was considered a ‘low’ art form? What was the caricature’s relationship with ‘high art’? What intensity of viewing is necessary – how many people need to be able to ‘see’ - for there to be an ‘ideological’ impact? Is there a concrete difference between the reception of a political caricature, and one concerning manners, such as arose in very large numbers in the last third of the eighteenth century in England? How can we determine the ideological function of eighteenth-century printed satires of fashion? What was the ideological role when observed of the ‘witty expressions and humorous sallies’ that were a popular consumer item, as d’Archenholz observed of the many such broadsheets being sold in the streets of

[1] John B. Thompson, Ideology and Modern Culture: Critical Social Theory in the Era of Mass Communication (Stanford: Stanford University Press, 1990), p. 2.

[2] Thompson adds: 'For social life is, to some extent, a field of contestation, in which struggle takes place through words and symbols as well as through the use of physiscal force.' Ibid., p. 10.

[3] Ibid., p. 166.

Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
Bloomsbury Academic, 2015
National Category
Art History
Research subject
Fashion Studies
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:su:diva-99986 (URN)10.5040/9781474232371.ch-006 (DOI)978-1-4725-2549-9 (ISBN)978-1-4725-5808-4 (ISBN)978-1-4725-5809-1 (ISBN)
Projects
EU HERA Fashioning the Early Modern
Funder
EU, European Research Council, 09-HERA-JRP-CI-FP-030
Available from: 2014-01-23 Created: 2014-01-23 Last updated: 2022-11-15Bibliographically approved
McNeil, P. & Miller, S. (2014). Fashion Writing and Criticism: History, Theory, Practice. Bloomsbury Academic
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Fashion Writing and Criticism: History, Theory, Practice
2014 (English)Book (Refereed)
Abstract [en]

"Fashion Writing and Criticism" provides students with the tools to critique fashion with skill and style. Explaining the history and theory of criticism, this innovative text demonstrates how the tradition of criticism has developed and how this knowledge can be applied to fashion, enabling students to acquire the methods and proper vocabulary to be active critics themselves. Integrating history and theory, this innovative book explains the development of fashion writing, the theoretical basis on which it sits, and how it might be improved and applied. Through concise snapshot case studies, top international scholars McNeil and Miller analyse fashion excerpts in relation to philosophical ideas and situate them within historical contexts. Case studies include contemporary examples of fashion writing, as well as Diana Vreeland at Harper's Bazaar and Richard Martin on Karl Lagerfeld. Accessibly written, "Fashion Writing and Criticism" enables readers to understand, assess and make value judgments about the fascinating and changeable field of fashion [publisher's abstract]

Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
Bloomsbury Academic, 2014. p. 160
Keywords
Fashion criticism, history and theory of criticism, art theory
National Category
Art History
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:su:diva-100030 (URN)10.5040/9781474228053 (DOI)9780857854469 (ISBN)
Projects
HERA EU Fashioning the Early Modern
Funder
EU, European Research Council, 09-HERA-JRP-CI-FP-030
Available from: 2014-01-24 Created: 2014-01-24 Last updated: 2022-09-29Bibliographically approved
McNeil, P. (2014). Georg Simmel: the ‘philosophical Monet’. In: Agnes Rocamora, Anneke Smelik (Ed.), Thinking through fashion: a guide to key theorists. London: I.B. Tauris
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Georg Simmel: the ‘philosophical Monet’
2014 (English)In: Thinking through fashion: a guide to key theorists / [ed] Agnes Rocamora, Anneke Smelik, London: I.B. Tauris, 2014Chapter in book (Refereed)
Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
London: I.B. Tauris, 2014
National Category
Art History
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:su:diva-99985 (URN)9780755694785 (ISBN)0755694783 (ISBN)
Available from: 2014-01-23 Created: 2014-01-23 Last updated: 2023-03-17Bibliographically approved
McNeil, P. (2013). Alchemical Power. On the Duchess and the Ladies who Lunched. Vestoj: The Journal of Sartorial Matters (4), 17-26
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Alchemical Power. On the Duchess and the Ladies who Lunched
2013 (English)In: Vestoj: The Journal of Sartorial Matters, no 4, p. 17-26Article in journal (Other academic) Published
Abstract [en]

The power of fashion clothing to attract attention has never been so pervasive, but its meaning has changed. What once seemed unobtainable and was achieved via years of aesthetic and personal ‘training’ sits on a stage quite different from that of the inter-war years. This world disappeared with the Second World War, despite various attempts to revive it in the fashions and entertainments of the 1950s and its mythological reflection in Hollywood films of that era. The essay reconsiders the infamous essay by Truman Capote; a part of his unfinished novel Answered Prayers, published as La Côte Basque 1965 in Esquire in 1975.

Keywords
women and fashion, fashion and agency, inter-war society, Truman Capote
National Category
Art History
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:su:diva-100032 (URN)
Available from: 2014-01-24 Created: 2014-01-24 Last updated: 2022-02-24Bibliographically approved
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