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Modelling Defiguration
Stockholm University, Faculty of Humanities, Department of Musicology and Performance Studies. Freie Universität Berlin, Germany.
2013 (English)In: Performance Research, ISSN 1352-8165, E-ISSN 1469-9990, Vol. 18, no 6, 157-160 p.Article in journal (Refereed) Published
Abstract [en]

For the presentation of his autumn/winter 2012 collection in Paris and subsequently in Copenhagen, Danish designer Henrik Vibskov installed a mobile catwalk. The article investigates the choreographic impact of this scenography on those who move through it. Drawing on Dance Studies, the analytical focus centres on how the catwalk scenography evokes a ‘defiguration’ of the walking models and to what effect.

Vibskov’s mobile catwalk draws attention to the walk, which is a key element of models’ performance but which usually functions in fashion shows merely to present clothes in the most advantageous manner. Stepping on the catwalk’s sloping, moving surfaces decelerates the models’ walk and makes it cautious, hesitant and shaky: suddenly the models lack exactly the affirmative, staccato, striving quality of motion, and the condescending expression that they perform on most contemporary catwalks. Vibskov’s catwalk induces what the dance scholar Gabriele Brandstetter has labelled a ‘defigurative choregoraphy’: a straying from definitions, which exist in ballet as in other movement-based genres, of how a figure should move and appear (1998). The catwalk scenography in this instance determines the models’ walk. Furthermore, letting the models set off sound through triggers with attached sound samples gives them an implied agency. This calls into question the designer’s unrestricted authorship.

Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
Routledge, 2013. Vol. 18, no 6, 157-160 p.
National Category
Design
Research subject
Fashion Studies
Identifiers
URN: urn:nbn:se:su:diva-104099DOI: 10.1080/13528165.2013.908076OAI: oai:DiVA.org:su-104099DiVA: diva2:720800
Available from: 2014-06-02 Created: 2014-06-02 Last updated: 2017-11-28Bibliographically approved

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