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  • 1. Dimitrakaki, Angela
    et al.
    Perry, Lara
    Huneault, Kristina
    Kivimaa, Katrin
    Noack, Ruth
    Proctor, Nancy
    Sjöholm Skrubbe, Jessica
    Stockholm University, Faculty of Humanities, Department of Art History.
    Steorn, Patrik
    Stockholm University, Faculty of Humanities, Department of Media Studies, Fashion Studies.
    Uhlyarik, Georgiana
    Constant Redistribution: A Roundtable on Feminism, Art and the Curatorial Field2013In: Journal of Curatorial Studies, ISSN 2045-5836, Vol. 2, no 2, p. 218-241Article in journal (Refereed)
    Abstract [en]

    This discussion between nine curators, theorists and art historians addresses some of the contemporary issues related to feminism and curating. Topics include the role of the geographical and geopolitical in curatorial projects; the place of canons and canon-making in feminist approaches; the nature of contemporary feminist collectivities; the importance of the museum and its context of capitalism within politicized curatorial practice; and the status of the object and aesthetics in feminist-oriented curatorial practice.

  • 2.
    McNeil, Peter
    et al.
    Stockholm University, Faculty of Humanities, Department of Media Studies, Fashion Studies. University of Technology Sydney, Australia.
    Steorn, Patrik
    Stockholm University, Faculty of Humanities, Department of Media Studies, Fashion Studies.
    Editorial2013In: Konsthistorisk Tidskrift, ISSN 0023-3609, E-ISSN 1651-2294, Vol. 82, no 3, p. 129-134Article in journal (Other academic)
  • 3.
    McNeil, Peter
    et al.
    Stockholm University, Faculty of Humanities, Department of Media Studies, Fashion Studies.
    Steorn, PatrikStockholm University, Faculty of Humanities, Department of Media Studies, Fashion Studies.
    Fashion and Print Culture: Translation and transformation: Special Issue of Konsthistorisk tidskrift/Journal of Art History2013Conference proceedings (editor) (Refereed)
    Abstract [en]

    Fashion is both a material product and a feature of the imagination. The way in which it is visualized, disseminated and distributed through representations is central to its social impact and influence across time and place. A study of print culture as it relates to fashion also requires the type of detailed understandings of the producers and reading publics for eighteenth-century periodicals and earlier forms of print. Yet the study of the construction and dissemination of the first fashion magazines is still little understood. Much has to be learned regarding the consumption of print culture generally as it pertains to fashion. What was the relationship between publishers, writers and illustrators of the fashion design press in France, England and Sweden? Who provided the narrative structure and imaginary settings of these magazines that continue to animate contemporary advertising today? How did the transmission of ideas in print work in practice?

    The dominance of an English-French dialogue about fashion is not just a product of the dominance of contemporary Western European foci in cultural history, in part a product of the languages that were taught in schools and colleges until recently. Even in the 18th century, fashion was often discussed as a type of dialogue between France and England. The eighteenth-century periodical Cabinet des Modes was itself positioned as a type of dialogue between England and France, suggesting that fashion derived from these two principal fashion capitals. Indeed, it changed its name at one stage to Magasin des Modes Nouvelles Françaises et Anglaises, allowing both a pictorial and a rhetorical dialogue to take place on the page, and inserting both countries into a cosmopolitan circuit ideas and of exchange. How then can we narrate the story of fashionability in countries other than France and England, what can be learned from national collections and foreign language texts than remain poorly accessed outside those countries?

    This special issue of the KT publishes findings related to the HERA funded project ‘Fashioning the Early Modern 1500-1800’ and the portfolio to be managed by McNeil and Dr Patrik Steorn, its post-doctoral researcher, ‘Print Culture and Fashion Products’. Editors' Introduction plus 9 articles; 8 in English and 1 in French.

  • 4.
    McNeil, Peter
    et al.
    Stockholm University, Faculty of Humanities, Department of Media Studies, Fashion Studies. University of Technology Sydney, Australia.
    Steorn, Patrik
    Stockholm University, Faculty of Humanities, Department of Media Studies, Fashion Studies.
    The Medium of Print and the Rise of Fashion in the West2013In: Konsthistorisk Tidskrift, ISSN 0023-3609, E-ISSN 1651-2294, Vol. 82, no 3, p. 135-156Article in journal (Refereed)
  • 5.
    Steorn, Patrik
    Stockholm University, Faculty of Humanities, Department of Media Studies, Fashion Studies.
    Att förändra bilden av sjukdomen, med hjälp av en kostym2013In: Från bögpest till tystnad: texter från bloggen / [ed] Christian A. Möllerop, Ulrika Westerlund, Johanna Wistedt, Stockholm: Riksförbundet för sexuellt likaberättigande (RFSL) , 2013Chapter in book (Other (popular science, discussion, etc.))
  • 6.
    Steorn, Patrik
    Stockholm University, Faculty of Humanities, Centre for Fashion Studies.
    Badande män: Om amatörfotografier, bad och maskulinitet kring sekelskiftet 19002009In: Idrott, historia och samhälle: Svenska idrottshistoriska föreningens årsskrift, Linköping: Svenska idrottshistoriska föreningen , 2009, p. 104-123Chapter in book (Other academic)
  • 7.
    Steorn, Patrik
    Stockholm University, Faculty of Humanities, Centre for Fashion Studies.
    Begränsad upplaga2008In: Arena, ISSN 1652-0556, no 5Article in journal (Other (popular science, discussion, etc.))
  • 8.
    Steorn, Patrik
    Stockholm University, Faculty of Humanities, Centre for Fashion Studies.
    Bilden som ett arkiv över dold mening: Konst och andlighet hos Tyra Kleen2010In: Det åskådliga och det bottenlösa: Tankar kring konst och humaniora tillägnad Margaretha Rossholm Lagerlöf / [ed] Tomas Björk, Stockholm: Konstvetenskapliga institutionen, Stockholms universitet , 2010Chapter in book (Refereed)
  • 9.
    Steorn, Patrik
    Stockholm University, Faculty of Humanities, Centre for Fashion Studies.
    Burning Beauty: David LaChapelle2012Collection (editor) (Other (popular science, discussion, etc.))
  • 10.
    Steorn, Patrik
    Stockholm University, Faculty of Humanities, Centre for Fashion Studies.
    Curating Queer Heritage: Queer Knowledge and Museum Practice2012In: Curator: The Museum Journal, ISSN 0011-3069, E-ISSN 2151-6952, Vol. 55, no 3, p. 355-365Article in journal (Refereed)
    Abstract [en]

    Important work in the last decades within the museum studies field has laid bare the implicit nationalist, evolutionist, and patriarchal narratives of the traditional museum. So far, though, only a few writers have discussed the museum’s role in supporting “heteronormative” narratives that consolidate heterosexuality as a norm within social and cultural life. This article is a critical discussion of methodological aspects of a queer perspective in interpreting, exhibiting, and organizing museum collections. Two shows with LGBT / queer perspective that were exhibited in Stockholm, Sweden during EuroPride 2008 are the focus of this article’s analysis. They consist of the photo exhibition Show Yourself! at the Nordic Museum, and Queer: Desire, Power, and Identity at the National Museum of Fine Arts. The author himself was the curator of the latter exhibition. This article offers personal reflections on the methodological challenges of translating an abstract queer perspective into museum practice in order to envision online and on-site museum encounters that can mobilize various kinds of pluralistic passions.

  • 11.
    Steorn, Patrik
    Stockholm University, Faculty of Humanities, Department of Media Studies, Fashion Studies.
    Curating Queer: Searching for queer desires and gender benders in Nationalmuseum, Stockholm2013In: ICOM España digital. Revista del Comité Español de ICOM, ISSN 2173-9250, no 8, p. 70-76Article in journal (Other academic)
  • 12.
    Steorn, Patrik
    Stockholm University, Faculty of Humanities, Centre for Fashion Studies.
    Dandyn i Dardels bildvärld: kläder, konst och vardagsliv2012In: Nils Dardel: i skuggan av dandyn / [ed] Karolina Peterson, Annelie Tuveros, Halmstad: Mjellby konstmuseum , 2012Chapter in book (Other academic)
  • 13.
    Steorn, Patrik
    Stockholm University, Faculty of Humanities, Centre for Fashion Studies.
    Då konsten blev olympisk OS 1912 fick även kulturen medalj2012In: Svensk Idrottsforskning: Organ för Centrum för Idrottsforskning, ISSN 1103-4629, no 2, p. 24-28Article in journal (Other (popular science, discussion, etc.))
    Download full text (pdf)
    Då konsten blev olympisk OS 1912 fick även kulturen medalj
  • 14.
    Steorn, Patrik
    Stockholm University, Faculty of Humanities, Centre for Fashion Studies.
    Eugène Jansson och den svenska konsthistoriens sexualitet2007In: Lambda Nordica, ISSN 1100-2573, E-ISSN 2001-7286, Vol. 12, no 3, p. 61-71Article in journal (Other academic)
    Abstract [sv]

    Eugène Jansson (1862–1915) is included in the Canon of Swedish History of Art, mostly thanks to his blue paintings of Stockholm. After 1904 he changed his motif and painted naked men; bathing, performing exercises och just looking at each other. For a long time his œuvre has been separated into two parts – Stockholmmotifs and naked men. In the writings of the history of art the later paintings has been considered to be “curiosities”.

    From a queerperspective this article states that conceptions on sexual and erotic desire plays a part in the creation, interpretation, looking and collecting of art, as well as in the writing of art history, and asks questions on what conceptions on sexual and erotic desire are immersed in the Swedish History of Art.

    The difficulty in handling the homoerotic desires of Jansson is possibly the result of that there has been strong ideas on the connections between heterosexual desire and artistic creation and creativity. These ideas prevail. What contemporary art is judged by art critics and art historians as “curiosities? On what grounds? What inclusions and exclusions are made, based on sexuality?

  • 15.
    Steorn, Patrik
    Stockholm University, Faculty of Humanities, Centre for Fashion Studies. Thiel Gallery, Sweden.
    Fashion History As Hybrid. A Transnational Perspective on the Distribution of Fashion History in Sweden, 1950-19802021In: Fashion Theory: The Journal of Dress, Body & Culture, ISSN 1362-704X, E-ISSN 1751-7419, Vol. 25, no 2, p. 215-241Article in journal (Refereed)
    Abstract [en]

    The fashion press has long played a powerful role as one of the most important primary sources for fashion history in the West. This article argues that the popular fashion history of the post-war decades is written in a methodological field that can be characterized as a hybrid: in-between the practices of journalistic writing and academic research, as well as curating, teaching, etc. The history of fashion in twentieth-century Sweden has in general not been particularly well known or documented, which may have contributed to make the field of fashion literature particularly open to influences from media, popular culture and international publishing. The object of this article is to propose a methodological examination of this frequently neglected group of fashion publications, with a particular emphasis on the illustrations. Inspired by a print culture perspective, popular fashion history and theory books are considered both as material objects and vehicles of ideas, texts and images. The focus on the situation in Sweden offers a perspective from the geographical margins of a conventional fashion history narrative.

  • 16.
    Steorn, Patrik
    Stockholm University, Faculty of Humanities, Department of Media Studies, Fashion Studies.
    Illustrationskonstens visuella kultur under 1800-talet2013In: Svensk illustration – en visuell historia 1900-2000 / [ed] Andreas Berg, Sara Teleman, Malmö: Arena , 2013Chapter in book (Other academic)
  • 17.
    Steorn, Patrik
    Stockholm University, Faculty of Humanities, Centre for Fashion Studies.
    Konst och idrott – skilda världar? Olympiska konsttävlingar i Stockholm 19122012In: Stockholmsolympiaden 1912: tävlingarna - människorna - staden / [ed] Hans Bolling, Leif Yttergren, Stockholm: Stockholmia förlag, 2012Chapter in book (Refereed)
  • 18.
    Steorn, Patrik
    Stockholm University, Faculty of Humanities, Centre for Fashion Studies.
    Konstnärligt anti-mode: Reformdräkt i Sverige kring sekelskiftet 19002009In: Mode: en introduktion: en tvärvetenskaplig betraktelse / [ed] Louise Wallenberg, Dirk Gindt, Stockholm: Raster förlag, 2009Chapter in book (Other academic)
  • 19.
    Steorn, Patrik
    Stockholm University, Faculty of Humanities, Centre for Fashion Studies.
    Kroppens förföriska skal: El cuerpo vestido/Dressing the body. Permanent utställning på DHUB, Palau de Pedralbes i Barcelona2011In: Utställningsestetiskt forumArticle, book review (Other (popular science, discussion, etc.))
  • 20.
    Steorn, Patrik
    Stockholm University, Faculty of Humanities, Centre for Fashion Studies.
    Kvinnor i manskläder och konstnär i damkläder: Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec i den parisiska bohemkulturen2008In: Toulouse Lautrec / [ed] Per Hedström, Stockholm: Nationalmuseum , 2008Chapter in book (Other academic)
  • 21.
    Steorn, Patrik
    Stockholm University, Faculty of Humanities, Centre for Fashion Studies.
    Life-style and politics of fashion and gender in 1960s Sweden: Unisex fashion in theory and practice2012In: The Meanings of Dress / [ed] Kimberly A. Miller-Spillman, Andrew Reilly, Patricia Hunt-Hurst, New York: Fairchild Books Inc. , 2012, 3, p. 200-206Chapter in book (Other academic)
  • 22.
    Steorn, Patrik
    Stockholm University, Faculty of Humanities, Centre for Fashion Studies.
    Mannen: bilden av mannen i konsten: 24 april-6 juni 20102010Book (Other (popular science, discussion, etc.))
  • 23.
    Steorn, Patrik
    Stockholm University, Faculty of Humanities, Centre for Fashion Studies.
    Marie Antoinettes skilda roller: recension av utställning på Grand Palais, Paris 2008In: Dagens Nyheter, ISSN 1101-2447, no 5 majArticle, book review (Other (popular science, discussion, etc.))
  • 24.
    Steorn, Patrik
    Stockholm University, Faculty of Humanities, Centre for Fashion Studies.
    Med popkultur i kroppen: Benny Nemerofsky Ramsays videoverk från tidigt 2000-tal2011In: Tidskrift för Genusvetenskap, ISSN 1654-5443, E-ISSN 2001-1377, no 1Article in journal (Refereed)
    Abstract [en]

    Artists who use experiences from a life outside the heterosexual norm as inspiration have attracted increasingly more attention in contemporary art during the last decade. The author suggests that one feature they have in common is to make themselves into artistic material, using their own bodies and self-perceptions. They also use explicit references to the impact of pop-culture in normative and non-normative notions of identities, feelings and desires. The Canadian video and performance artist Benny Nemerofsky Ramsay combines both these features in his production. Works from the earlier part of the 2000s as well as newspaper interviews with the artist, form the primary base of this article that aims to analyze how emotions and body are used as artistic material in the work of an artist who is outside the heterosexual norm, but right in the mainstream of popular culture. In the light of theories about consumer culture, on the role of the subject and of the body in contemporary art as well as the role of popular culture for self-making activities, particularly two works are analyzed: I am a Boy Band, 2002 and Lyric, 2004. The self-perception of a gay man is used as artistic material in the work of Nemerofsky Ramsay. His childhood activities of singing in a choir and taking ballet classes are linked together with feelings of not belonging in a heteronormative society in his interviews. Today this seems to have become a source of creative energy for him. With references to traditions of "camp" and lesbian and gay performance art he uses his own body, flamboyant gestures and emotional facial expressions, to stage how queer appropriating and incorporation of the surrounding culture is filled with both passion and disgust and also how these practices can point to positionalities beyond the dichotomy of depth and surface.

  • 25.
    Steorn, Patrik
    Stockholm University, Faculty of Humanities, Department of Media Studies, Fashion Studies.
    Med queer blick på modehistorien2013In: Dagens Nyheter, ISSN 1101-2447, no 23 decemberArticle, book review (Other (popular science, discussion, etc.))
  • 26.
    Steorn, Patrik
    Stockholm University, Faculty of Humanities, Centre for Fashion Studies.
    ’Men can be attractive and a little sexy…’ Swedish unisex fashion in the 1960s and 1970s2012In: Nordic Fashion Studies / [ed] Peter McNeil, Louise Wallenberg, Stockholm: Axl Books, 2012Chapter in book (Refereed)
  • 27.
    Steorn, Patrik
    Stockholm University, Faculty of Humanities, Centre for Fashion Studies.
    Mer än bara en dandy: om Rolf de Maré, recension av bok av Erik Näslund och utställning på Dansmuseet2008In: Dagens Nyheter, ISSN 11012447, no 25/10Article, book review (Other (popular science, discussion, etc.))
  • 28.
    Steorn, Patrik
    Stockholm University, Faculty of Humanities, Department of Media Studies, Fashion Studies.
    Migrating Motifs and Productive Instabilities: Images of Fashion in Eighteenth-Century Swedish Print Culture2013In: Konsthistorisk Tidskrift, ISSN 0023-3609, E-ISSN 1651-2294, Vol. 82, no 3, p. 219-234Article in journal (Refereed)
  • 29.
    Steorn, Patrik
    Stockholm University, Faculty of Humanities, Department of Media Studies, Fashion Studies.
    Mode, illustration och livsstil: en kosmopolit på 1980-talet2013In: Svensk illustration: en visuell historia 1900-2000 / [ed] Andreas Berg, Sara Teleman, Malmö: Arena förlag , 2013Chapter in book (Other academic)
  • 30.
    Steorn, Patrik
    Stockholm University, Faculty of Humanities, Department of Media Studies, Fashion Studies.
    Mode, makt och män i Prousts Paris2013In: En plats i tiden: Föredrag och artiklar om Marcel Proust / [ed] Emi-Simone Zawall, Stockholm: Marcel Proust-sällskapet , 2013Chapter in book (Other (popular science, discussion, etc.))
  • 31.
    Steorn, Patrik
    Stockholm University, Faculty of Humanities, Centre for Fashion Studies.
    Mode och skam: Om Sighsten Herrgård, AIDS, garderober och arkiv2009In: Lambda Nordica, ISSN 1100-2573, E-ISSN 2001-7286, no 3-4, p. 78-103Article in journal (Refereed)
    Abstract [en]

    Fashion and Shame. On Sighsten Herrgård, AIDS, wardrobes and archives

    On July 29th, 1987 Swedish fashion designer Sighsten Herrgård (1943-1989) announced on national TV news that he was HIV-positive and had developed AIDS. The TV reporter said that AIDS finally had been given a face in Sweden. Herrgård thereby became an iconic figure in Swedish modern history, not least in its LGBT-history. His face is still well known in Sweden today even though his professional life as a fashion designer in the 1960s and 70s and as a trend analyst in the 1980s is not always remembered.

    Before his death in December 1989 Herrgård published an autobiography, participated in a biographical TV documentary on his life and donated his personal archive of clippings as well as parts of his wardrobe to the Nordic Museum, Stockholm. The article shows that these sources to a large extent iterate the same narratives in several areas with one exception: when it comes to AIDS, the donated archive is silent – no clippings, no clothes refer to disease. Also, by conciously choosing to wear suits during his numerous media appearances he tried to wrest control of the media image of himself and of people with AIDS in general. The author concludes that these sources and their lacunas suggest that Herrgård tried to stage the afterworld’s image of himself.

    Bearing on the work of Douglas Crimp and Susan Sontag this article discusses the mechanisms of social stigma in 1980s Sweden with a focus on Sighsten Herrgård, a bisexual man with AIDS who also represented the fashion world. It also studies the role of fashion as a strategic tool in the visual representation of Herrgård in Swedish media. Finally, the article aims at sketching out a methodology of how to use wardrobes/clothing archives as potential sources for alternative historical narratives.

  • 32.
    Steorn, Patrik
    Stockholm University, Faculty of Humanities, Department of Media Studies, Fashion Studies.
    Nakenheten som verktyg för självreflektion och samhällsprotest2013In: Dagens Nyheter, ISSN 1101-2447, no 11 februariArticle, book review (Other (popular science, discussion, etc.))
  • 33.
    Steorn, Patrik
    Stockholm University, Faculty of Humanities, Department of Art History.
    Nakna män: Maskulinitet och kreativitet i svensk bildkultur 1900-19152006Doctoral thesis, monograph (Other academic)
    Abstract [en]

    At the turn of the 20th century, there was a notion in Europe that urbanisation and industrialisation had drained the human race of spiritual and physical energy. A particular concern was that men were being emasculated. An image of naked, athletic men was created, which was perceived to depict a form of unadulterated masculinity in touch with nature.

    The aim of this dissertation is to demonstrate that “the image of the male nude” was a complex and multifaceted performance that depicted contradictory ideas of gender, sexuality, class, and ethnicity. In addition, it aims at demonstrating the extensiveness of this motif in early 1900’s Sweden, not only in art but also in mass-produced images. Another aim is to show that images of naked men were used for different purposes by different groups of viewers.

    The dissertation consists of three overall sections: Context, Image Culture, and Subject. Section I deals with the doctrines on mechanism and vitalism and with the discussions on homosexuality, gender differences, the working class, and nationalism in the late 1800’s and early 1900’s. Section II traces images of male bodies within the framework of sport cultures and bathing culture. Section III analyses the image of the male nude in the subject areas of antiquity, old Norse motifs, biblical motifs, allegorical personifications and symbolistic depictions.

    Sports magazines depicted muscular men as examples of activity; health journals and medical books used them as visualisations of health; in the art world they symbolized an artistic reawakening, while the images were objects of desire in male homosexual circles. A masculine, athletic, heterosexual, short-cropped, bourgeois Swedish man with a moustache became a nationalistic figurehead. Hardness and physical inaccessibility were accentuated, at the same time as the nudity enticed the viewer to see, in the very same bodies, physical accessibility and tactile gentleness.

  • 34.
    Steorn, Patrik
    Stockholm University, Faculty of Humanities, Department of Media Studies, Fashion Studies.
    Patrik Steorn läser Laura Mulvey: Blickens erotiska fostran2013In: Tidskrift för Genusvetenskap, ISSN 1654-5443, E-ISSN 2001-1377, no 4, p. 58-62Article in journal (Refereed)
  • 35.
    Steorn, Patrik
    Stockholm University, Faculty of Humanities, Department of Media Studies, Fashion Studies.
    Queer in the museum: Methodological reflections on doing queer in museum collections2010In: Lambda Nordica, ISSN 1100-2573, E-ISSN 2001-7286, no 3-4, p. 119-122Article in journal (Refereed)
    Abstract [sv]

    Under sommaren 2008 var Stockholm värd för Euro Pride och på flera ställen i Stockholms museivärld mötte besökare förkortningen "HBT" och ordet queer. Flera museer såsom Dansmuseet, Hallwylska museet, Historiska Museet, Moderna Museet och Nationalmuseum erbjöd queervisningar av sina permanenta samlingar medan exempelvis Armémuseum presenterade en tolkning av deras permanenta utställningar från HBT-perspektiv med hjälp av tillfälligt utplacerade texter och ytterligare andra institutioner, såsom Nationalmuseum, Polismuseet och Nordiska museet anordnade tillfälliga utställningar med HBT eller queer i de egna samlingarna som tema. Utställningen § 1, vars namn hänvisar till det första stycket i förklaringen om de mänskliga rättigheterna, var ett oberoende initiativ som förenade Nobelmuseet, Tekniska museet, Sjöhistoriska museet och Armémuseum på en utställningsyta där varje institution gjort var sin egen utställning som på olika sätt anknöt till HBT-historia eller allmänna reflektioner kring konstruktion av normer.

    Artikelförfattarens samlade intryck är dock att museernas aktiviteter inte uppnådde en normkritisk analys utan tenderade att befatta sig med perspektivet på ett relativt ytligt plan. Respektive museums egen roll i att producera och upprätthålla normer har fortfarande inte behandlats seriöst av dessa institutioner och riktlinjer som gäller museernas verksamheter har heller inte utvärderats i relation till normer när det gäller sexualiteter.  

    Artikeln är en kritisk diskussion om olika metodologiska aspekter av att använda sig av queer som ett perspektiv för att tolka och ställa ut museisamlingar. Två utställningar med HBT/queer perspektiv som visades i Stockholm under Euro Pride 2008 är fokus för artikelns analys. Nordiska museets fotoutställning "Visa dig!" visade bilder med heteronormativa och icke-normativa par ur museets stora samling av fotografier. "Queer. Begär, makt och identitet” var en utställning på Nationalmuseum som visade ett urval verk ur de permanenta samlingarna och diskuterade representationer av kön, samkönad lust och sexuell identitet. Artikelförfattaren var själv curator för denna utställning och bidrar därmed med personliga reflektioner kring de metodologiska utmaningar det innebär att omsätta ett abstrakt queerperspektiv i museal praktik.

    Exempelvis kan det finnas hundratals föremål med stor potential för queer tolkning eller med stark koppling till HBT-samhället gömda i ett enskilt museums samlingar utan att de går att hitta på grund av att kunskapsinsamlingen kring de samlade föremålen varit inriktad på till exempel kategorier som material, upphovsperson, proveniens. Samtidigt skulle införandet av queer tolkningar och HBT–berättelser i museernas klassificeringssystem inte var en tillfredsställande lösning eftersom det väcker frågor om hur och i vilka syften den insamlade kunskapen skulle kunna användas. Att införa queer som en kategori i en databas skulle dessutom gå emot hela begreppets innebörd. Att söka efter queer närvaro i en museisamling är alltså en metodologisk utmaning och artikeln diskuterar behovet av närmare undersökningar av hur museer samlar in föremål.

    Betydelsen av att tänka om själva idén om vad ett arkiv kan vara blir särskilt viktig när queer historia skrivs, vilket flera forskare inom queer studies diskuterar sedan några år. För att kunna berätta nya typer av historier behöver forskare och museer vända sig till andra typer av källor till information. Judith Halberstam pekar bland annat ut material som kan tyckas trivialt eller efemärt. Artikeln för fram att behovet av att upprätta alternativa arkiv inte kan överlåtas till offentliga institutioner, utan här behöver olika typer av HBT-grupper och queeraktivister också vara aktiva.

    Museer med ambitioner att vara queer måste titta på sin roll som institutioner, som producenter av makt och normativ mening. Museerna skulle kunna underlätta produktionen av queer tolkningar av deras samlingar genom innovativa utställningsidéer, nyskapande forskning och genom att uppmuntra oväntade och subversiva evenemang att ta plats i de egna lokalerna.

  • 36.
    Steorn, Patrik
    Stockholm University, Faculty of Humanities, Centre for Fashion Studies.
    Spornstar: PATRIK STEORN om maskulinitet, fotboll och homoerotik2008In: Aftonbladet, ISSN 1103-9000, no 9 juniArticle in journal (Other (popular science, discussion, etc.))
  • 37.
    Steorn, Patrik
    Stockholm University, Faculty of Humanities, Centre for Fashion Studies.
    Spretigt men värdefullt om queer på universitetet: Recension av Lönngren, Ann-Sofie, Malin Ekström och Maria Margareta Österholm, Queera intersektioner: queerseminariet vid Uppsala universitet 2008–2010 (2011)2012In: Lambda Nordica, ISSN 1100-2573, E-ISSN 2001-7286, no 4, p. 217-220Article, book review (Other academic)
    Abstract [sv]

    HUR GÖRS QUEER i akademin? De senaste åren har intresset ökat för metodologier inom queerstudier, i Sverige och internationellt. Teori kvarstår förstås som en av grundpelarna i queer, men i och med att de senaste decenniernas teoretiska landvinningar har burit frukt på landets universitet och högskolor skrivs det nu en hel del uppsatser och avhandlingar som applicerar queerperspektiv på ett empiriskt material. I det arbetet spetsas frågan till och blir dynamisk: görs queer på olika sätt i olika ämnen, eller finns det gemensamma metoder? Kanske är det frågorna, snarare än metoderna som förenar queerforskning? Och hur riktas den queera kritiken emot de metoder som producerar normativ kunskap? Behövs det andra, oprövade metoder, och hur bör dessa i så fall utarbetas?

  • 38.
    Steorn, Patrik
    Stockholm University, Faculty of Humanities, Department of Media Studies, Fashion Studies.
    Staging masculinity and identity: Visual culture of naked men ca. 19002010In: Contemporary feminist studies and its relation to art history and visual studies: proceedings from a conference in Gothenburg, March 28-29, 2007 / [ed] Whitney Chadwick, Bia Mankell, Alexandra Reiff, Göteborg: Göteborgs universitet, 2010, p. 91-111Chapter in book (Other academic)
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  • 39.
    Steorn, Patrik
    Stockholm University, Faculty of Humanities, Centre for Fashion Studies.
    Strangers to Each Other? A Study in Looking at the Work of Tora Vega Holmström2012In: Konsthistorisk Tidskrift, ISSN 0023-3609, E-ISSN 1651-2294, Vol. 81, no 3, p. 150-165Article in journal (Refereed)
    Abstract [en]

    Tora Vega Holmström’s painting Strangers (1913 14) was the first contribution to the project Second Museum of our Wishes of theModerna Museet (Museum of Modern Art) in Stockholm in 2006. The painting had attracted the public’s interest before this, but had not received a great deal of attention from art historians and critics until the 1980s.Shifts that have occurred in the reception of the painting are examined. It is primarily as an Expressionist and as a woman artist that Holmström has been written about and exhibited. Swedish Art History has traditionally associated Holmström with the local art scene in the region of Skåne. In the late 1980s previously unknown correspondence between Holmström and the Austrian writer Rainer Maria Rilke was published. His interest in, and empathic interpretation of Strangers lent it a distinct cosmopolitan dimension.This study interprets Strangers from a spectator’s point of view and reflects upon the relationship between painting, model, artist and spectator. A performative model of interpretation, in the vein of Amelia Jones and Peggy Phelan, allows the author’s personal experiences to become part of the analysis. It is proposed that the artwork explores austerity, strength and resistance as visual effects.The painting is also placed in a broader cultural perspective, against the backdrop of the vitalist and primitivist currents of the early decades of the 20th century. In relation to a traditional stereotype of sexualised women, Holmström has emphasised the ambivalent construction of the subject by stressing the model’s inner energy.

  • 40.
    Steorn, Patrik
    Stockholm University, Faculty of Humanities, Department of Media Studies.
    Swedish 1960s fashion in the U.S.: A transnational perspective on fashion and national identity2013In: Querformat, ISSN 1867-447X, Vol. 6, p. 63-66Article in journal (Refereed)
    Download full text (pdf)
    fulltext
  • 41.
    Steorn, Patrik
    Stockholm University, Faculty of Humanities, Centre for Fashion Studies.
    The Art of Staging Passion: The Imagery of David LaChapelle2012In: Burning Beauty: David LaChapelle / [ed] Patrik Steorn, Stockholm: Fotografiska , 2012, p. 7-16Chapter in book (Other (popular science, discussion, etc.))
  • 42.
    Steorn, Patrik
    Stockholm University, Faculty of Humanities, Centre for Fashion Studies.
    The Spirit of Vitalism: Health, Beauty and Strength in Danish Art, 1890–19402011In: Konsthistorisk Tidskrift, ISSN 0023-3609, E-ISSN 1651-2294, Vol. 80, no 4, p. 241-244Article, book review (Other academic)
  • 43.
    Steorn, Patrik
    Stockholm University, Faculty of Humanities, Centre for Fashion Studies.
    Vävda modedrömmar: Från Ripsa till New York på Hallwylska museet2012In: Årsbok Föreningen Garde robe, Stockholm: Föreningen Garde robe , 2012Chapter in book (Other (popular science, discussion, etc.))
  • 44.
    Steorn, Patrik
    et al.
    Stockholm University, Faculty of Humanities, Department of Media Studies, Fashion Studies.
    Östlund, Michel
    Eliasson, Charlotte
    Ingenmansland2013In: Expressen, ISSN 1103-923X, no 15 aprilArticle in journal (Other (popular science, discussion, etc.))
1 - 44 of 44
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