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  • 1. Borkopp-Restle, Birgitt
    et al.
    McNeil, Peter
    Stockholms universitet, Humanistiska fakulteten, Centrum för modevetenskap. University of Technology, Australia; Aalto University, Finland.
    Martinetti, Sara
    Miller, Lesley
    Riello, Giorgio
    Museums and the Making of Textile Histories: Past, Present, and Future2016Inngår i: Perspective: actualite en l'histoire de l'art, ISSN 2269-7721, nr 1, 43-60 s.Artikkel i tidsskrift (Fagfellevurdert)
    Abstract [fr]

    Nombre de musées différents collectionnent et préservent les textiles, et collectent les données les concernant. Ils les interprètent également par le biais d’expositions temporaires ou semi permanentes, de publications et d’interventions sur des sites web. Ces interprétations se présentent isolément, ou sont parfois inscrites dans un cadre plus large qui englobe l’histoire de l’art et du design, la science et la technologie, ou encore l’histoire sociale et l’anthropologie, l’histoire locale et les cultures du monde (types de textiles et approches utilisées dans les grandes capitales de la mode – Londres, Paris, Milan, New York – possédant une longue tradition de production et de consommation textile, ou dans des villes manufacturières telles que Krefeld, Lyon ou Manchester, par exemple).

    Malgré tout, les événements organisés autour des textiles attirent rarement l’attention du grand public ou les éloges de la critique – hormis peut-être certaines expositions novatrices telles que celles organisées par Jean-Paul Leclercq (« Jouer la lumière », Paris, Les Arts décoratifs, Musée de la Mode et du textile, 2001), Thomas P. Campbell, (« Tapestry in the Renaissance: Art and Magnificence, New York, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2002), Amelia Peck et al. (« Interwoven Globe : The Worldwide Textile Trade, 1500-1800 », New York, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2013-2014), ou John Styles (« Threads of Feeling », Londres, The Foundling Hospital, 2010-2011/Colonial Williamsburg, 2014). Cette discussion vise à tirer parti des différentes expériences culturelles des participants et des diverses formations disciplinaires qu’ils incarnent :

    - Encourager le débat sur le rôle joué par les musées en matière de fabrication et de représentation de l’histoire des textiles. Les musées ne sont pas simplement dépositaires d’objets textiles : ils écrivent aussi leur histoire, qu’elle soit universitaire ou grand public, par le biais d’expositions et de publications. Comment ce travail s’articule-t-il avec la recherche universitaire et le partage des connaissances ? Tient-il compte des nouveaux apports de la recherche et alimente-t-il celle-ci ? Comment faire évoluer à l’avenir les échanges entre musées et universités dans différentes régions et cultures du monde ?

    - Déterminer quels musées font preuve d’innovation (à l’échelle locale, régionale, nationale et internationale). En quoi consistent ces innovations, et peuvent-elle contribuer à déterminer de futures orientations, notamment en matière de collection et d’interprétation ? Par interprétation, il faut entendre ici tout type d’explication sous forme numérique ou analogique fournie pour contextualiser les œuvres exposées.

    - Il est difficile, désormais, d’affirmer que seuls les historiens de l’art sont à même de proposer une étude dynamique des objets datant de la période post 1500, et l’intérêt quasi exclusif porté jusqu’ici aux textiles attachés à la tradition bien établie de la collection d’amateur d’art (essentiellement les tentures et tapisseries répondant à des commandes de prestige) est aujourd’hui remis en question par l’adoption d’approches plus globales par les historiens et les spécialistes de l’histoire du design et de la culture matérielle.

  • 2.
    Borneskog, Ida
    Stockholms universitet, Humanistiska fakulteten, Centrum för modevetenskap.
    Deconstructing the Brat phenomenon2011Independent thesis Advanced level (degree of Master (One Year)), 40 poäng / 60 hpOppgave
  • 3.
    Burbach, Karolina
    Stockholms universitet, Humanistiska fakulteten, Centrum för modevetenskap.
    Schwarz Rot Gold is the New Black: The production of patriotism in German fashion  - The case of Eva Gronbach2009Independent thesis Advanced level (degree of Master (One Year)), 10 poäng / 15 hpOppgave
    Abstract [en]

    This thesis is a theoretically guided empirical discussion of fashion and its role within the production of national identity in Germany. In recent years, a new patriotism in contemporary German fashion could be observed, starting with the fashion designer Eva Gronbach in 2001. I will approach the term patriotism with the aid of one of Michel Foucault's key terms, the notion of the episteme. In my case study, singular fashion images from three consecutive collections by Gronbach are examined with regard to their role in the discourse of German patriotism. But I am not only interested in the "how" of this discourse. Building up upon Antonio Gramsci's notion of "cultural hegemony", I also explain the recent rise of this fashion patriotism. Thus, my discourse analysis of Gronbach's fashion becomes embedded in social struggles and transformations in Germany. Argueing that fashion is a discursive practice that can show up as well as promote changes in discursive formations, I assume a dialectical structure-agency conception: On the one hand the case of Gronbach hints at the deeper structural problematic of patriotism and social cohesion which allowed Gronbach to become popular. On the other hand, this structure is also produced via discursive practices such as Gronbach´s. The what I term "inclusionary patriotism" comprises cultural normalisation. Thus, the case of Gronbach demonstrates a "constrained heterogeneity" with regard to the discourse of patriotism in Germany, in which diversity is only acceptable within certain discursively constructed limits. 

  • 4.
    Gindt, Dirk
    Stockholms universitet, Humanistiska fakulteten, Institutionen för musik- och teatervetenskap. Stockholms universitet, Humanistiska fakulteten, Centrum för modevetenskap.
    Angels in America: Roy Cohn och konstruktionen av en frisk, heterosexuell  samhällskropp2002Inngår i: Lambda Nordica: Tidskrift om homosexualitet, ISSN 1100-2573, nr 3-4, 95-107 s.Artikkel i tidsskrift (Annet vitenskapelig)
  • 5.
    Gindt, Dirk
    Stockholms universitet, Humanistiska fakulteten, Centrum för modevetenskap. Stockholms universitet, Humanistiska fakulteten, Institutionen för musik- och teatervetenskap, Avdelningen för teater- och dansvetenskap.
    Anxious Nation and White Fashion: Suddenly Last Summer in the Swedish folkhem2009Inngår i: Nordic Theatre Studies, ISSN 0904-6380, E-ISSN 2002-3898, Vol. 21, nr 1, 98-112 s.Artikkel i tidsskrift (Fagfellevurdert)
    Abstract [en]

    This article investigates how Tennessee Williams’ play Suddenly Last Summer, as staged in Sweden in 1959, communicated sexual and racial anxieties. It aims to tease out the importance of fashion for the articulation of the closet and the expression of the simultaneous absence and presence of the queer subject in the play. Looking at the omnipresent use of whiteness of certain key costumes, the essay further proposes the concept of white Gothic fashion and argues that this assumed a whole new meaning when staged in a social and historical context that was not only characterized by institutionalized homophobia, but also promoted white hegemony and the control of women’s bodies. Placing particular emphasis on the socio-historical context of Sweden in the 1950s, the article demonstrates how performance studies and fashion theory can engage in a critical cultural analysis and help us understand national emotions, concerns and anxieties.

  • 6.
    Gindt, Dirk
    Stockholms universitet, Humanistiska fakulteten, Centrum för modevetenskap. Stockholms universitet, Humanistiska fakulteten, Institutionen för musik- och teatervetenskap.
    Bildens halva sanningar2009Inngår i: Teatertidningen, nr 2-3, 50-51 s.Artikkel i tidsskrift (Annet (populærvitenskap, debatt, mm))
  • 7.
    Gindt, Dirk
    Stockholms universitet, Humanistiska fakulteten, Centrum för modevetenskap. Stockholms universitet, Humanistiska fakulteten, Institutionen för musik- och teatervetenskap.
    Coming Out of the Cabinet: Fashioning the Closet with Sweden’s Most Famous Diplomat2010Inngår i: Critical Studies in Fashion and Beauty, ISSN 2040-4417, Vol. 1, nr 2, 233-254 s.Artikkel i tidsskrift (Fagfellevurdert)
    Abstract [en]

    This essay offers a critical analysis of the media discourse surrounding the Swedish diplomat Sverker Åström’s coming out as a gay man at the age of 87. Particular interest is devoted to his striking fashion choice of wearing a pair of oddly coloured socks, which highlighted his contradictory masculinity as well as the many inherent paradoxes of the closet. Åström’s red and green socks functioned as a means to express forbidden desires, to oppose normative expectations in a playful way and to grant the gay subject a presence in a world that is still very much structured by the logics of the closet. Moreover, his contradictory body language, coupled with his repeated affirmations that his coming out was a private issue, revealed a divided masculinity that was ideologically dependent on a pre-feminist understanding of gender and sexuality as private, that is, non-political identities. The article argues that there was strong evidence to suggest that his coming out was in fact a tactical move in a political game with the objective to denounce and ridicule the Swedish Security Police, which, after decades of surveillance, refused to grant the diplomat access to its classified files on him.

  • 8.
    Gindt, Dirk
    Stockholms universitet, Humanistiska fakulteten, Centrum för modevetenskap. Stockholms universitet, Humanistiska fakulteten, Institutionen för musik- och teatervetenskap.
    Den teatrala vreden: Hiv/aids och gayidentitet i Larry Kramers drama The Normal Heart2008Inngår i: Lambda Nordica: Tidskrift för homo/lesbisk/bi/transforskning, ISSN 1100–2573, Vol. 13, nr 4, 74-97 s.Artikkel i tidsskrift (Annet vitenskapelig)
    Abstract [en]

    The article offers an analysis of Larry Kramer's drama The normal heart (1985), one of the first written plays dealing with HIV/AIDS. The focus lies on how Kramer treats the question of gay male identity and the narrow understanding of gay politics dominated by white middle-class men. Four thematic areas are discussed: The main character's critique of sexual promiscuity and his demands of sexual abstinence, his encouragement to his friends to come out of the closet, the awareness of gay men's contributions to history and culture, and the rising anger and rage as driving forces for new alliances and broader forms of activism. The article argues that queer theory must be situated in the specific socio-political climate of the 1980s and reminds of the importance of the HIV/AIDS-crisis for shaping a new understanding of sexual identities.

  • 9.
    Gindt, Dirk
    Stockholms universitet, Humanistiska fakulteten, Centrum för modevetenskap. Stockholms universitet, Humanistiska fakulteten, Institutionen för musik- och teatervetenskap.
    ‘En gorillaliknande högpotent hanne som stank av kön’: Anders Ek och gestaltningen av sexualitet i Spårvagn till Lustgården2009Inngår i: Mode – en introduktion: En tvärvetenskaplig betraktelse / [ed] Dirk Gindt & Louise Wallenberg, Stockholm: Raster , 2009Kapittel i bok, del av antologi (Annet vitenskapelig)
  • 10.
    Gindt, Dirk
    Stockholms universitet, Humanistiska fakulteten, Institutionen för musik- och teatervetenskap. Stockholms universitet, Humanistiska fakulteten, Centrum för modevetenskap.
    En hyllning till Gunnel Broström: Sveriges främsta Williamsaktris2011Inngår i: Teatertidningen, nr 2, 32-35 s.Artikkel i tidsskrift (Annet (populærvitenskap, debatt, mm))
  • 11.
    Gindt, Dirk
    Stockholms universitet, Humanistiska fakulteten, Centrum för modevetenskap. Stockholms universitet, Humanistiska fakulteten, Institutionen för musik- och teatervetenskap.
    En kort introduktion till kritiska maskulinitetsstudier2008Inngår i: Lambda Nordica: Tidskrift för homo/lesbisk/bi/transforskning, ISSN 1100–2573, Vol. 13, nr 4, 6-14 s.Artikkel i tidsskrift (Annet vitenskapelig)
  • 12.
    Gindt, Dirk
    Stockholms universitet, Humanistiska fakulteten, Centrum för modevetenskap. Stockholms universitet, Humanistiska fakulteten, Institutionen för musik- och teatervetenskap.
    Eve Kosofsky Sedgwick in memoriam2009Inngår i: Lambda Nordica: Tidskrift för homo/lesbisk/bi/transforskning, Vol. 4, nr 2, 76-90 s.Artikkel i tidsskrift (Annet vitenskapelig)
  • 13.
    Gindt, Dirk
    Stockholms universitet, Humanistiska fakulteten, Centrum för modevetenskap. Stockholms universitet, Humanistiska fakulteten, Institutionen för musik- och teatervetenskap.
    In Defense of the Theatrical Event2007Inngår i: Willmar in the World: Young Scholars Exploring the Theatrical Event: A Festschrift for Willmar Sauter on his 60th Birthday / [ed] Yael Feiler, Rikard Hoogland, Kalle Westerling, Stockholm: STUTS , 2007, 22-28 s.Kapittel i bok, del av antologi (Annet vitenskapelig)
  • 14.
    Gindt, Dirk
    Stockholms universitet, Humanistiska fakulteten, Centrum för modevetenskap. Stockholms universitet, Humanistiska fakulteten, Institutionen för musik- och teatervetenskap.
    Inledning2009Annet (Annet vitenskapelig)
  • 15.
    Gindt, Dirk
    Stockholms universitet, Humanistiska fakulteten, Institutionen för musik- och teatervetenskap. Stockholms universitet, Humanistiska fakulteten, Centrum för modevetenskap.
    Inledning: Reflektioner kring mode, feminism och homosexualitet2009Inngår i: Lambda Nordica: Tidskrift för homo/lesbisk/bi/transforskning, ISSN 1100-2573, Vol. 14, nr 3-4, 9-23 s.Artikkel i tidsskrift (Annet vitenskapelig)
  • 16.
    Gindt, Dirk
    Stockholms universitet, Humanistiska fakulteten, Institutionen för musik- och teatervetenskap. Stockholms universitet, Humanistiska fakulteten, Centrum för modevetenskap.
    Mode – en introduktion: En tvärvetenskaplig betraktelse 2009Collection/Antologi (Annet (populærvitenskap, debatt, mm))
  • 17.
    Gindt, Dirk
    Stockholms universitet, Humanistiska fakulteten, Centrum för modevetenskap. Stockholms universitet, Humanistiska fakulteten, Institutionen för musik- och teatervetenskap, Avdelningen för teater- och dansvetenskap.
    Out of the Closet, Onto the Page: A discussion of  Williams’s public coming out on The David Frost Show in 1970 and his confessional writing of the ’70s, with Michael Paller, Annette Saddik and David Savran, panel debate from the 2010 Tennessee Williams Scholars Conference, New Orleans, USA2011Inngår i: The Tennessee Williams Annual Review, ISSN 1097-6053, nr 12, 107-119 s.Artikkel i tidsskrift (Annet (populærvitenskap, debatt, mm))
  • 18.
    Gindt, Dirk
    Stockholms universitet, Humanistiska fakulteten, Centrum för modevetenskap. Stockholms universitet, Humanistiska fakulteten, Institutionen för musik- och teatervetenskap, Avdelningen för teater- och dansvetenskap.
    Performative Processes: Björk’s Creative Collaborations with the World of Fashion2011Inngår i: Fashion Theory: The Journal of Dress, Body and Culture, ISSN 1362-704X, E-ISSN 1751-7419, Vol. 15, nr 4, 425-450 s.Artikkel i tidsskrift (Fagfellevurdert)
    Abstract [en]

    This essay analyzes how Icelandic singer-songwriter and actress Björk uses dress as a creative medium to enhance her musical vision, visualize her patriotic politics as well as ally herself with performance art and further strengthen her position in the avant-garde. I devote specific attention to her joining forces with British designer Alexander McQueen and British photographer Nick Knight and unpack the implications of this creative collaboration, arguing that Björk strategically uses McQueen’s and Knight’s understanding of fashion as a performative process, that is, constantly in a state of becoming and transformation, in order to create her unique style that is characterized by the shifting and unstable identity of the Icelandic geographical body. In the last part of the essay, I take Björk’s involvement with SHOWstudio as a starting point to reflect on some of the consequences when these visual and performative collaborations move into the realm of the digital.

  • 19.
    Gindt, Dirk
    Stockholms universitet, Humanistiska fakulteten, Centrum för modevetenskap.
    Playing Activists and Dancing Anarchists: Men and Masculinities in Cultural Performances in Contemporary Sweden2008Doktoravhandling, monografi (Annet vitenskapelig)
    Abstract [en]

    Playing Activists and Dancing Anarchists is a Ph.D. dissertation that aims to analyse men and masculinities in political demonstrations and similar manifestations by conceptualising and analytically approaching such cultural performances as theatrical events. The case studies include: the large peace demonstration in Stockholm in February 2003 against the invasion of Iraq; a street theatre performance by the comedians Kesselofski and Fiske, who argue against the European Monetary Union; four Social Democratic May Day celebrations with former prime minister Göran Persson as the main speaker; two anti-racist demonstrations, one of which leads to a violent street battle between activists and a riot police squad.

    The dissertation proposes Performance Studies as a relevant means of examining men and masculinities in political live events. The method of study is based on participant observation, which enables a direct experience of the theatrical communication. This material is complemented with additional sources, such as photographs, newspaper articles, magazines, video recordings, TV broadcasts, interviews, flyers and Internet websites. The theoretical and analytical approach is inspired by Willmar Sauter’s model of the theatrical event and Raewyn Connell’s theory of hegemonic masculinity. The theatrical event studies the live meeting between performers and spectators as a playful act of human communication in a concrete space. It also situates any performance in a cultural context that includes gender and gender relations. Connell suggests that, while most men benefit from the structural subordination of women, relations between different men and masculinities are dynamic and characterised by internal hierarchies. The normative and socially privileged position is given to hegemonic masculinity, a combination of cultural ideal and institutional power that is often reinforced by an underlying threat of violence.

    The different chapters identify and discuss a broad range of men and masculinities, from a cowboy-politician and a financial shark to dead political father figures and masked collectives of martyrs. At first sight, these seem to be immensely diverse, unique and individual – but a closer analysis reveals that many of them are contemporary embodiments or complicit supporters of hegemonic masculinity. Underneath the playful surface of some of the events are strong undercurrents of this ideal. At times, these create a small quake during a cultural performance. At others, they erupt forcefully. While violence is a central theme of the study, it also shows the growing resistance offered by feminist activists, performers and musicians. Cultural performances prove to be loci where hegemonic masculinity is not only reproduced, but also contested. The concept of the theatrical event helps to identify and spotlight these attempts and shows how Performance Studies can contribute to analysing men and masculinities in political demonstrations and similar cultural performances.

  • 20.
    Gindt, Dirk
    Stockholms universitet, Humanistiska fakulteten, Centrum för modevetenskap. Stockholms universitet, Humanistiska fakulteten, Institutionen för musik- och teatervetenskap.
    Tennessee Williams and the Swedish Academy: Why he never won the Nobel Prize2011Inngår i: Tenn at One Hundred: The Reputation of Tennessee Williams / [ed] David Kaplan, East Brunswick, NJ: Hansen , 2011, 153-167 s.Kapittel i bok, del av antologi (Annet vitenskapelig)
  • 21.
    Gindt, Dirk
    Stockholms universitet, Humanistiska fakulteten, Institutionen för musik- och teatervetenskap. Stockholms universitet, Humanistiska fakulteten, Centrum för modevetenskap.
    Torn between the ‘Swedish Sin’ and ‘homosexual freemasonry’: Tennessee Williams, sexual morals and the closet in 1950’s Sweden2010Inngår i: The Tennessee Williams Annual Review, ISSN 1097-6035, Vol. 11, 19-39 s.Artikkel i tidsskrift (Fagfellevurdert)
  • 22.
    Gindt, Dirk
    Stockholms universitet, Humanistiska fakulteten, Centrum för modevetenskap. Stockholms universitet, Humanistiska fakulteten, Institutionen för musik- och teatervetenskap, Avdelningen för teater- och dansvetenskap.
    When Broadway came to Sweden: The European premiere of Tennessee Williams’s Cat on a Hot Tin Roof2012Inngår i: Theatre Survey, ISSN 0040-5574, E-ISSN 1475-4533, Vol. 53, nr 1, 59-83 s.Artikkel i tidsskrift (Fagfellevurdert)
    Abstract [en]

    This essay proposes a case-study approach to examine how the initial European production of Cat was received and, by implication, how one of the defining American playwrights of the twentieth century was discussed in Sweden. It focuses on the process of cultural translation and, more precisely, the question of how Swedish ensembles interpreted a foreign playwright who was known for breaking sexual taboos. Unpacking the cross-cultural and transnational dialogue that was established when Cat made its first appearance on a European stage, the essay teases out the cultural tensions and the negotiation of national identity that took place when Williams’s play was transposed from the Mississippi Delta to a more northern latitude. I argue that the stage and the cultural sections of the newspapers offered a forum for Sweden to negotiate some of the country’s sexual anxieties by making use of American cultural products and firmly situating them in an exoticized American context whose values were deemed to conflict with European, and more specifically Swedish, cultural identity.

  • 23.
    Glogorovska, Kristina
    Stockholms universitet, Humanistiska fakulteten, Centrum för modevetenskap.
    EXPLORATION OF THE GENDER MYTH VIA FASHION MEDIA: ANDROGYNY AND DANDYISM IN CONTEMPORARY FASHION MAGAZINES2011Independent thesis Advanced level (degree of Master (One Year)), 40 poäng / 60 hpOppgave
    Abstract [en]

    This paper attempts to analyze different representations of "androgyny‟ as fashion tendency in contemporary fashion magazines (Vogue, i-D and LOVE Magazine) for the period of 2010 and 2011. In order to show the development of "androgyny‟ as fashion tendency, this study first explores how androgyny metamorphosed from a "hidden‟ signifier of unconventional sexuality to "visible‟ postmodern teaser for sexual identities.

    Currently, we live in the "Age of Androgyny‟ where the modern androgynous dandy is being seen as an aphrodisiac for the fashion industry. This study also tries to provide explanation of how "androgyny‟ and "dandyism‟ evolved from concepts to parallel trends in fashion due to their frequent and simultaneous reappearance in fashion media. In order to create nuanced portrayal in the understanding of androgyny and dandyism, qualitative method was used by describing, analysing and interpreting the representation of these trends in three different fashion and art publications.

    The fact that this tendency for "gender fusion‟ is increasingly finding its way into mainstream culture, with emphsis on the fashion industry, raises the question of whether the society is more open towards different gender expressions or is "androgyny‟ just another exploitative form for the fashion industry.

  • 24.
    Gustafsson Molin, Sofia-Li
    Stockholms universitet, Humanistiska fakulteten, Centrum för modevetenskap.
    Män i klackar: analys av den visuella diskursen om män i högklackade skor2011Independent thesis Basic level (degree of Bachelor), 20 poäng / 30 hpOppgave
  • 25.
    Göransson, Amanda
    Stockholms universitet, Humanistiska fakulteten, Centrum för modevetenskap.
    Förgängligt mode eller varaktig konst?: Mode, konst och förgänglighet i kollektionen Haute Papier av Bea Szenfeld2014Independent thesis Basic level (degree of Bachelor), 10 poäng / 15 hpOppgave
    Abstract [en]

    Ephemerality is one of the most essential characteristics of fashion, since fashion by definition is existing in the present, in the fleeing moment. Also, fashion is closely related to art and there is currently no clear theoretical distinction made regarding the boundary between these two domains. In this essay I have explored the concept of transiency and the relationship between fashion and art in relation to fashion in general and to the collection Haute Papier, made by the fashion designer Bea Szenfeld, in specific. The Haute Papier collection is constructed almost entirely out of simple white paper sheets and of this reason it can be regarded as ephemeral. The material also positions the garments in a void between fashion and art, simultaneously existing in both domains and in none of them. I have conducted an object analysis of three of the garments from Haute Papier with the aim of discerning aspects of ephemerality, aspects that criticizes the age in which we live and how the collection positions itself in regard to fashion and art. The theories that I have applied to my material emanates from different aspects of transiency and the fashion and art relationship and includes, among others, theories from Walter Benjamin and Barbara Vinken and extractions from the anthology Fashion and Art by Adam Geczy and Vicki Karaminas. In the analysis it became visible that transiency can be discerned in many varying aspects of the collection, for example in the material and in the time in which fashion operates. What also became visible was that the definition of the object, as art or as fashion, above all depends on which system it is part of, but that it also can change this definition if the context changes.

  • 26.
    Hagelin, Anette
    Stockholms universitet, Humanistiska fakulteten, Centrum för modevetenskap.
    Femininitet i den visuella hipsterdiskursen: - en feministisk visuell kulturanalys av American Apparels reklambilder och utvalda hipsterbloggar2014Independent thesis Basic level (degree of Bachelor), 180 hpOppgave
    Abstract [en]

    The purpose of this essay is to show how femininity is construed in a visual hipster discourse. The material used mainly consists of four adverts from the fashion company American Apparel and four blogs with the word hipster in the title. The method used is inspired by semiotics and discourse analysis and the theory is based on feminist visual culture. Focus is placed on both a deep analysis of the images and texts individually, and a review of the discourse and context in which they interact, in order to discover how femininity is construed among hipsters. Throughout the course of the analysis, gender and sexuality is a consistent focus and leads to other aspects related to power not being prioritised. The analysis section is divided into two main areas of focus where American Apparel is the first part and the hipster blogs the other. Each section begins with an analysis of images and text and is concluded with a summary. In the concluding discussion, it becomes clear that sexist images are used to represent women primarily by American Apparel, but this stereotype is also apparent in the blogs. It is also clear from the analysis of the material that unique and alternative fashion is promoted. Rather than re-contextualising femininity, the traditional objectification of women is hidden behind the hipster ideal. The essay concludes with several brief thoughts and discussion on whether it is possible to apply this ideal of women on a larger part of society than just hipsters.

  • 27.
    Holm, Susanna
    Stockholms universitet, Humanistiska fakulteten, Centrum för modevetenskap.
    The Sound of Fashion: en studie av tre svenska modevarumärken2010Independent thesis Basic level (degree of Bachelor), 10 poäng / 15 hpOppgave
  • 28.
    Holma, Marina
    Stockholms universitet, Humanistiska fakulteten, Centrum för modevetenskap.
    Made in Italy 2.0: Searching for the Characteristics of Contemporary Italian Fashion in the Context of Fashion Design Education in Italy2014Independent thesis Advanced level (degree of Master (Two Years)), 20 poäng / 30 hpOppgave
    Abstract [en]

    “Made in Italy” is a phenomenon widely researched in economic, historical and cultural studies (including fashion studies). The research about this topic mostly refers to the fast economic development in post-WWII Italy, in which fashion played a major role. My thesis, however, analyzes the “Made in Italy” concept in contemporary Italian fashion, which I refer to as “Made in Italy 2.0.” In order to understand how Italian style can be characterized today, I conducted interviews in five design schools in Italy located in the different fashion cities of the country: IED and Politecnico (Milan), IUAV (Venice), Polimoda and IED (Florence). I then analyzed my collected data and compared it to the characteristics of the “Made in Italy” fashion of the second half of the twentieth century discussed by various scholars, thus discovering what are the truly contemporary features of Italian fashion. 

  • 29.
    Holma, Marina
    Stockholms universitet, Humanistiska fakulteten, Centrum för modevetenskap.
    The Wicked Witch of the West: An Analysis of Vera Wang's Fall 2012 Bridal Collection2013Independent thesis Advanced level (degree of Master (One Year)), 10 poäng / 15 hpOppgave
    Abstract [en]

    The thesis analyzes Vera Wang's Fall 2012 bridal collection, which features only nude and black colors. The sombre title of the collection, Witchcraft, is intensified by the themes of morbidity and decay, dangerous sexuality, ambiguity and haunting past found during the course of my analysis, and the aim of this thesis is to demonstrate how these dark motifs are a sign of modernity in bridal. My main argument is that the deathly connotations of the collection represent change in the tradition of bridal wear, and that the alternative collection by Vera Wang is a representation of fashion becoming more influential in the industry of conventional wedding dresses. 

  • 30.
    Jansson, Isabelle
    Stockholms universitet, Humanistiska fakulteten, Centrum för modevetenskap.
    Mode som narrativ: En analys av modets roll i The Picture of Dorian Gray2015Independent thesis Basic level (degree of Bachelor), 10 poäng / 15 hpOppgave
    Abstract [en]

    My aim with this study has been to examine how the fashion is a leading component in the novel The Picture of Dorian Gray.

    I have studied the role fashion plays in the novel and in which way it can be seen as a way of letting the reader know the important role of fashion in 19tcentury England and the morals of Oscar Wilde.

    To prove my thesis I have used literature that shows how Oscar Wilde uses influences from his own life in his writing of The Picture of Dorian Gray. I have also used Judith Butler's theory of performativity in analyzing the characters in ordet to display their way of staging themselves and their lifestyles and their dependence of that performativity in their interactions. Even though the theory of performativity often is used to hold the importance of the sexes, I have concluded that it has an important role in the novel when Dorian Gray interacts with the character Sibyl Vane who is an actress. My results have shown that fashion in the novel is often a way of letting the reader know important elements of a character in the way that certain fabrics and items are mentioned when Wilde writes about his characters. I have also found that fashion is an important factor when the characters judge each when they speak about the way they dress. The way fashion is presented in the novel is important to my thesis and has shown me how fashion can be used in literature as symbolic elements guiding the narrative.

    Keywords: Oscar Wilde, The Picture of Dorian Gray, Fashion in literature, Performativity. Judith Butler

  • 31.
    Johansson, Karin
    Stockholms universitet, Humanistiska fakulteten, Centrum för modevetenskap.
    "You look very smart!": En analys av klädernas gestaltning av modernitet och konservatism i Downton Abbey2012Independent thesis Basic level (degree of Bachelor), 10 poäng / 15 hpOppgave
    Abstract [sv]

    Uppsatsens ämne berör karaktärer i tv-serien Downton Abbey och deras förhållande till kläder. Tre karaktärer jag tolkar som konservativa ställs i kontrast till tre karaktärer som i högre grad förespråkar moderniteten. Genom att jämföra hur karaktärerna via kläder medvetet och omedvetet gestaltar sin syn på samhällsutvecklingen undersöker jag hur stora likheter som framkommer mellan dem. Syftet är att analysera hur individens samhällssyn gestaltas genom kläderna. Analysen utförs med en metod inspirerad av ikonografi där nyckelscener från serien betraktas utifrån en rent beskrivande vinkel såväl som i relation till samtida kontexter. Downton Abbey vars handling utspelas under 1910- och 1920-talet belyser tidens problematiska inställning till samhället. Genom att analysera de faktiska kläderna och åsikterna om mode och kläder blir det tydligt vilken betydelse etikett och traditioner har för de konservativa karaktärerna. Med hjälp av teoretiska perspektiv från Goffman och Bourdieu diskuteras hur smaken och därigenom kläderna speglar individen. Kläderna tolkas här som en medveten metod genom vilken man har makt att styra hur man uppfattas av andra. För karaktärerna i Downton Abbey spelar detta en avgörande roll då ett flertal av dem tydliggör sina konservativa eller rebelliska åsikter med hjälp av kläderna. Resultatet visar således att de konservativa uttrycker sin ställning genom att vidhålla äldre modeideal eller lägga större vikt vid klädselns estetiskt tilltalande egenskaper. De nytänkande personerna använder i större utsträckning kläderna för att medvetet förespråka samhällets demokratisering genom att föredra en mer informell eller revolutionär klädstil.

  • 32.
    Kaiser, Thaïs
    Stockholms universitet, Humanistiska fakulteten, Centrum för modevetenskap.
    "The magazine is a moment of conscious looking" – An Ethnographic Study on the Practice of Reading Fashion Magazines2017Independent thesis Advanced level (degree of Master (Two Years)), 20 poäng / 30 hpOppgave
  • 33.
    Katzwinkel, Natascha
    Stockholms universitet, Humanistiska fakulteten, Centrum för modevetenskap.
    The 'Perfect' Body: A Study of the Body in Today's Consumer Society2014Independent thesis Advanced level (degree of Master (One Year)), 10 poäng / 15 hpOppgave
    Abstract [en]

    This thesis explores the ways in which the body is positioned within consumer society. The development of body ideals in Western societies is examined in order to point out consumers’ occupation with appearances and their bodies as signifiers of success. The three case studies (A&F, Calvin Klein Underwear and fitness magazines) will enable a close analysis of contemporary society and its engagement with the body. I argue that today the body acts as a signifier for people’s narcissistic obsession with the surface, and that the body itself has come to exhibit characteristics of a commodity in consumer society.

  • 34.
    Knight, Petrine
    Stockholms universitet, Humanistiska fakulteten, Centrum för modevetenskap.
    “All the men admired her, and many of the women envied her”: The Role of Dress in Portraits of Eighteenth-Century British Courtesans, 1751-17902011Independent thesis Advanced level (degree of Master (Two Years)), 40 poäng / 60 hpOppgave
  • 35.
    Kollnitz, Andrea
    Stockholms universitet, Humanistiska fakulteten, Centrum för modevetenskap.
    Museiidentitet och genus: Norrköpings Konstmuseum2011Inngår i: Representation och regionalitet: Genusstrukturer i fyra svenska konstmuseisamlingar / [ed] Anna Tellgren, Jeff Werner, Stockholm: Statens kulturråd , 2011, 54--79 s.Kapittel i bok, del av antologi (Fagfellevurdert)
  • 36.
    Kollnitz, Andrea
    Stockholms universitet, Humanistiska fakulteten, Centrum för modevetenskap.
    Promoting the Young - Interactions between the Avant-Garde and the Swedish Art Market 1910-19252012Inngår i: A Cultural History of the Avant-Garde in the Nordic Countries 1900-1925 / [ed] Hubert van den Berg, Irmeli Hautamäki, Benedikt Hjartarson, Torben Jelsbak, Rikard Schönström, Per Stounbjerg, Tania Örum, Dorthe Aagesen, Amsterdam: Rodopi, 2012, 275-290 s.Kapittel i bok, del av antologi (Fagfellevurdert)
  • 37.
    Kollnitz, Andrea
    Stockholms universitet, Humanistiska fakulteten, Centrum för modevetenskap.
    Rollspel: Mode som självframställning och experiment under Siri Derkerts 1910-tal2011Inngår i: Att alltid göra och tänka det olika: Siri Derkert i 1900-talet / [ed] Mats Rohdin, Annika Öhrner, Stockholm: Kungliga biblioteket, Stockholm , 2011, 59-91 s.Kapittel i bok, del av antologi (Annet vitenskapelig)
  • 38.
    Kollnitz, Andrea
    Stockholms universitet, Humanistiska fakulteten, Centrum för modevetenskap.
    Simply Illustrations? On Interactivities between Words and Pictures in the Rhetoric of Art Reviews2009Inngår i: Valör, ISSN 0283-751X, nr 1, 3-20 s.Artikkel i tidsskrift (Annet vitenskapelig)
  • 39.
    Lindblad, Emma
    Stockholms universitet, Humanistiska fakulteten, Centrum för modevetenskap.
    Etisk Shopping: En studie av unga mäns tankar kring etiska dimensioner av klädkonsumtion2007Independent thesis Advanced level (degree of Master (One Year)), 10 poäng / 15 hpOppgave
    Abstract [en]

    In contemporary public debate there is currently a great deal of focus attached to environmental problems and social responsibility. This trend is noticeable within the clothing industry, where it has become increasingly popular for new brands to market themselves with an environmental and ethical profile. An anthropological approach has been used to investigate how individuals understand ethical dimensions of clothing, and relates to the consumers’ ideals that are pronounced by clothing companies with an environmental and ethical profile. Interviews have been conducted with young men, a group often absent in accounts of ethical consumption. From these conversations, it is possible to discuss wider processes going on in society at large. Contemporary discourse on ethical shopping appears to rest on the assumption that the individual is able to freely choose among merchandise available on the market, and is placed in a central position of responsibility towards human and non-human others. There is a need for research that challenges this view. From the material it became visible that there existed a strong boundary from the informants´ point of view of what was mentioned as social problems or global issues, and of what they considered reasonable of themselves to bear responsibility for. Distrust was expressed against ongoing public debate that was considered to be too one-sided. Barely any references existed of ecological and fair made fashion, suggesting a generational gap in experiences of this kind of clothing. The study is considered to stimulate for further research in the area of ethical shopping of clothes.

  • 40.
    Lindblad, Emma
    et al.
    Stockholms universitet, Humanistiska fakulteten, Centrum för modevetenskap.
    Östberg, Jacob
    Stockholms universitet, Humanistiska fakulteten, Centrum för modevetenskap.
    The Cultural Role of Stigmatized Youth Groups: The Case of the Partille Johnnys of Sweden2011Inngår i: Research in Consumer Behavior / [ed] Russell W. Belk, Kent Grayson, Albert M. Muñiz, Hope Jensen Schau, Emerald Group Publishing Limited, 2011, Vol. 13, 127-143 s.Kapittel i bok, del av antologi (Fagfellevurdert)
    Abstract [en]

    Purpose: This paper aims to contribute to the theoretical domain of identity construction by discussing an aspect of identity-not, i.e. how identity is largely formed by delimitations of what one does not identify with. We do this by analyzing the reactions of mainstream youth to the stylistic expressions of one particular youth group—the so-called Partille Johnnys (PJs) of Sweden—who in certain ways breaks with conventions of how to relate to the globally available canon of culturally sanctioned styles which places them in a position as stigmatized. The purpose of the paper is to further the understanding of how stigma gets orchestrated in consumer culture and what cultural role stigmatized groups might play.

    Methodology: The empirical material for this paper has been collected using various qualitative research techniques. Initially the phenomenon was discovered and explored during ethnographic observations and interviews. In addition online research was carried out.

    Findings: The PJ style functions as a mirror for reflecting on transgressions of what is considered normal in terms of style and bodily practices for contemporary Swedish youth. Our conclusion suggests that the cultural function of the stigmatized group PJ is to serve as a reminder of what the mainstream is not.

    Originality/value of paper: A phenomenon previously not studied, part of the value lies in the ethnographic descriptions capturing the PJ phenomenon. With these empirical descriptions we wish to add to discussions of how the stigmatized groups gets orchestrated as well as the role that stigmatized groups can play at a cultural level. 

  • 41.
    Lindgren, Maria
    Stockholms universitet, Humanistiska fakulteten, Centrum för modevetenskap.
    The Perception of Fashion: Alexander McQueen: A case study of the subjective perceptual experience offive Alexander McQueen fashion shows2011Independent thesis Advanced level (degree of Master (One Year)), 40 poäng / 60 hpOppgave
  • 42.
    Lomas, Clare
    et al.
    London College of Fashion, UK.
    McNeil, Peter
    Stockholms universitet, Humanistiska fakulteten, Centrum för modevetenskap. University of Technology, Sydney.
    Gray, Sally
    University of New South Wales, Sydney, Australia.
    Beyond the Rainbow: Queer Shoes2011Inngår i: Shoes: A History from Sandals to Sneakers / [ed] G Riello P McNeil, London: Berg Publishers, 2011, 1:2, 290-305 s.Kapittel i bok, del av antologi (Annet vitenskapelig)
  • 43.
    Lunding, Erika
    Stockholms universitet, Humanistiska fakulteten, Centrum för modevetenskap.
    Beautiful, Happy and with a Heart of Gold Sara Gay Model Girl : A Fashion Role Model In Four Girls’ Series Books from 19612012Independent thesis Advanced level (degree of Master (Two Years)), 20 poäng / 30 hpOppgave
    Abstract [en]

    The fashion model is a highly visible presence within contemporary culture. Yet little is known regarding the historical development of the model within broader cultural life, from her walk to her demeanour. Whilst scholars such as Caroline Evans are currently assessing the rise of the model within the terms of turn of the century avant-gardism, this thesis will focus on the role of the fashion model (as ‘mannequin’) in the literature of the post-war period. It will be a case study of a series of four novels written by Janey Scott regarding “Sara Gay Model Girl” published in 1961.

    Fashion shows, magazines, television programmes, websites: the fashion model is represented wherever fashion imagery is present. The model is a presence in everyday life through the media, reaching a wide audience of all ages, not least because of the global toy industry. Reality television shows such as Top Model (broadcast in over 120 countries), Project Runway and Toddlers & Tiaras are only three examples of programmes being broadcast to a worldwide audience. A small (changing) elite group of models are also part of a global commercial celebrity culture, keeping track of their whereabouts both on and off the catwalk.The fashion model profession has a more than one hundred year long history. There is now ethnographic work that has been conducted on the mannequin (Entwistle). This thesis investigates a specific case, how the mannequin was represented as a role model in literature fifty years ago. This was a key period in world culture in terms of the rise of film, television and popular media representations. The teenager was well established as a type by the 1950s. How was the mannequin established as a new role model for girls in the 1960s?

  • 44.
    Mattsson, Julia
    Stockholms universitet, Humanistiska fakulteten, Centrum för modevetenskap.
    "Peshmerga-chic" och "Nipster": En kritisk diskursanalys om hur modet samspelar med vår förförståelse och hur det analyseras i media2015Independent thesis Basic level (degree of Bachelor), 10 poäng / 15 hpOppgave
    Abstract [en]

    Fashion creates reactions. It is a type of art form that constantly needs to be updated. This is the thrilling part about fashion, but it is also the part that can create unintentional reactions.

    In this essay I will examine two garments that have achieved a great amount of media coverage, both in Sweden and abroad. One of them is a jumpsuit from H&M that was criticized because of the resemblance to the uniform worn by the Peshmerga-soldiers in Kurdistan. The other garment is a children’s sweater launched by Zara. This one was criticized because of its connotation to what the Jewish people were forced to wear during World War Two. By doing an analysis of the two garments and then a critical discourse analysis I intend to find out if there is a difference in the way media treated the two garments. Another question that my essay will try to answer is who reacted to the two cases?

    Theoretical premises have been Edward Said’s Orientalism, Pierre Bourdieu’s Habitus and Roland Barthes contribution about Semiology. My main focus was to decide whether the human prejudice was the basis for their reaction on the examined clothes.

    The result shows that there are distinct differences in the media discourse about the two garments. It also proved that Said’s thoughts about a great diversion between east and west is still applicable and our earlier experiences are of great importance while facing new ones. 

  • 45.
    Mattsson, Klara
    Stockholms universitet, Humanistiska fakulteten, Centrum för modevetenskap.
    Hel-looks - A Constructed Image: En studie i representationen av Helsingfors som modestad2011Independent thesis Basic level (degree of Bachelor), 10 poäng / 15 hpOppgave
  • 46.
    McNeil, Peter
    Stockholms universitet, Humanistiska fakulteten, Centrum för modevetenskap. University of Technology Sydney, Australia.
    A Fashion Meeting: an 18th-Century Water-Colour for the Printed Gallérie des Modes, 17792012Annet (Annet vitenskapelig)
  • 47.
    McNeil, Peter
    Stockholms universitet, Humanistiska fakulteten, Centrum för modevetenskap.
    A Line of Beauty: The commingling of art and fashion2011Inngår i: Art and Australia, ISSN 0004301X, Vol. 48, nr 4, 672-679 s.Artikkel i tidsskrift (Annet vitenskapelig)
  • 48.
    McNeil, Peter
    Stockholms universitet, Humanistiska fakulteten, Centrum för modevetenskap.
    Art and Dress2010Inngår i: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion, Volume 8: West Europe / [ed] L Skov, Oxford and New York: Berg Publishers, 2010, 522-527 s.Kapittel i bok, del av antologi (Annet vitenskapelig)
  • 49.
    McNeil, Peter
    Stockholms universitet, Humanistiska fakulteten, Centrum för modevetenskap.
    Australian and New Zealand Art History Historiographical Bibliography Incorporating the Australian Art and Design History bibliography  Including texts relating to interiors, architecture, furniture, decorative arts and crafts; texts published pre-1995, including certain primary sources prepared by Professor Peter McNeil, pp 24-34: With Benjamin Thomas (ed)2011Inngår i: Journal of Art Historiography, ISSN 0424752, Vol. 1, nr 4/June, 1-36 s.Artikkel i tidsskrift (Annet vitenskapelig)
    Abstract [en]

    First published bilbiography of works relating to crafts, design and decorative arts in Australia, mainly items pre 1994, based on McNeil's MA Thesis Australian National University 1994

  • 50.
    McNeil, Peter
    Stockholms universitet, Humanistiska fakulteten, Centrum för modevetenskap.
    Caricatura e moda: storia di una presa in giro2010Inngår i: Moda. Storia e Storie / [ed] M. Muzzarelli;.G., Riello, & Tosi Brandi, Milan: 9788861594906 , 2010, 156-167 s.Kapittel i bok, del av antologi (Fagfellevurdert)
    Abstract [en]

    From the Italian for ‘charge’ or ‘loaded’, the caricature print emerged in large numbers in the eighteenth century in industrialising western Europe. It was in the second half of this century that the caricature which concerned itself primarily with the subject of fashion and manners rather than political or portrait themes developed. The origins and conventions of the fashion caricature include overlapping literary, theatrical, popular-religious and artistic traditions. Greco-Roman theorisations, performances and artistic depictions of the comic world turned upside down, and late medieval woodcuts, in which memento mori  themes of the dance of death and the bonfire of the vanities established the tropes of the veneer of civilisation and the futility of dress and cosmetics in arresting earthly time. The European carnival tradition, commedia dell’arte and puppetry which highlight human foibles, and the figure of the hag who deploys fashion and make-up in an act of sartorial and spiritual delusion, provided subjects for major Romantic artists working in the etching media such as Giambattista Tiepolo (1696-1770), Domenico Tiepolo (1727-1804) and Francisco Goya (1746-1828). Not fashion caricatures as such, nor were these images widely available, but their themes recur in the eighteenth-century caricature print. Caricature fashion prints also exist in a relationship to respectful engravings of the cries or occupations of the town, plates depicting national dress, and ‘costume plates’ depicting courtier men and ‘women of quality’ by 17th century artists including Abraham Bosse and J. D. de Saint-Jean in France and the Bohemian Wenceslaus Hollar (1607-1677) working in England. The work of Jacques Callot (1592-1635) in France crosses the boundary between observation and satire. Etched images take on new meanings when pointed  titles or moralising verse are appended; the caricature generally makes use of a combination of word and image.This essay examines the semantic and visual play of the caricature print and comments on contemporary applications.

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