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  • 101.
    Nyberg, Klas
    et al.
    Stockholm University, Faculty of Humanities, Department of Media Studies, Fashion Studies.
    Hagberg, Axel
    Appendix 2: Måleri och bildkonst i Stockholm 1720–18502017In: Ekonomisk kulturhistoria : Bildkonst, konsthantverk och scenkonst 1720−1850 / [ed] Klas Nyberg, Stockholm: Kulturhistoriska Bokförlaget , 2017, p. 189-214Chapter in book (Other academic)
  • 102.
    Nyberg, Klas
    et al.
    Stockholm University, Faculty of Humanities, Department of Media Studies, Fashion Studies.
    Hayen, Mats
    Konkursinstitutet i Stockholm 1720–18502017In: Ekonomisk kulturhistoria : Bildkonst, konsthantverk och scenkonst 1720−1850 / [ed] Klas Nyberg, Stockholm: Kulturhistoriska Bokförlaget , 2017, p. 37-46Chapter in book (Other academic)
  • 103.
    Nyberg, Klas
    et al.
    Stockholm University, Faculty of Humanities, Department of Media Studies, Fashion Studies.
    Jakobsson, Håkan
    Stockholm University, Faculty of Humanities, Department of History.
    Financial networks, migration and the transformation of the merchant elite in 18th century Stockholm2013In: The History of Bankruptcy : Economic, social and cultural implications in early modern Europe / [ed] Thomas Max Safley, Abingdon, Oxon: Routledge, 2013Chapter in book (Refereed)
  • 104.
    Nyberg, Klas
    et al.
    Stockholm University, Faculty of Humanities, Department of Media Studies, Fashion Studies.
    Jakobsson, Håkan
    Stockholm University, Faculty of Humanities, Department of History.
    Negotiations, credit and trust in Northern Europe: Institutional efficiency in the handling of bankruptcies in late eighteenth-century Stockholm2016In: Dealing with Economic Failure: Betweeen norm and Practice (15th to 21st Century) / [ed] Albrecht Cordes,‎ Margrit Schulte Beerbühl, Frankfurt am Main: Peter Lang Publishing Group, 2016, p. 97-114Chapter in book (Refereed)
  • 105.
    Nyberg, Klas
    et al.
    Stockholm University, Faculty of Humanities, Department of Media Studies, Fashion Studies.
    Lundqvist, Pia
    Dolda innovationer: textila produkter och ny teknik under 1800-talet2013Collection (editor) (Other academic)
    Abstract [sv]

    Den industriella revolutionen började med det textila. Med tillkomsten av fabrikerna började massproducerade vävnader av alla de slag översvämma marknaden. Ny teknik och en mångfald mönster, färger, material och olika slags design förebådar ett konsumtionssamhälle. Ett nytt Sverige och Norden.

    Denna bok om textila produktinnovationer har sin utgångspunkt i de kommersiella entreprenörer som växte fram i början av 1800-talet. De var ett nytt slags företagare med en internationell referensram som förmedlade av ny teknik och nya försäljningsmetoder från de industriella huvudländerna. Nu spreds den första industriella revolutionen från Storbritannien till regioner också i Europas utkant. Antologin ger en ny tolkning av den industriella revolutionens dynamik.

    Forskningen har kunnat visa att entreprenörerna spelade en avgörande roll framväxten av fabrikssystemet i Norden. De kombinerade kunskaper om tekniska och kommersiella utländska landvinningar med kunskap om den växande efterfrågan på skandinaviska hemmamarknaden. Sverige och de övriga nordiska länderna saknade stora städer och massmarknader. Konsumenterna bestod av små befolkningskoncentrationer som var spridda över en stor yta. Därför krävdes en mer aktiv försäljningsorganisation i Norden jämfört med övriga Europa. Mekaniker, formgivare, ämbetsmän och köpmän ingick i de textila entreprenörernas personliga nätverk.

    I antologin studerar en grupp textilforskare en magnifik tygprovssamling från KTH:s föregångare Tekniska Instituet. Syftet med undersökningarna är att belysa, utforska och precisera de små stegvisa men osynliga viktiga textiltekniska produktinnovationer (mönster, färgning, efterberedning) som förändrade textilmarknaden under 1800-talet. Resultaten visar vad dessa kommersiellt aktiva entreprenörer konkret gjorde när de revolutionerade textilmarknaden. Samlingen, som tidigare tillhörde Tekniska museet i Stockholm, har överförts till Textilmuseet i Borås där den förtecknats och konserverats. Projektet är ett samarbete mellan Textilmuseet, Uppsala universitet samt Textilhögskolan i Borås.

  • 106.
    Nyberg, Klas
    et al.
    Stockholm University, Faculty of Humanities, Department of Media Studies, Fashion Studies.
    Stavenow-Hidemark, Elisabet
    Förord2015In: Från kläde till silkesflor : Textilprover från 1700-talets svenska fabriker / [ed] Elisabet Stavenow-Hidemark, Klas Nyberg, Stockholm: Kulturhistoriska Bokförlaget , 2015, p. 9-11Chapter in book (Other academic)
  • 107.
    Nyberg, Klas
    et al.
    Stockholm University, Faculty of Humanities, Department of Media Studies, Fashion Studies.
    von Wachenfeldt, Paula
    Stockholm University, Faculty of Humanities, Department of Media Studies, Fashion Studies.
    Introduktion2015In: Det svenska begäret : Sekler av lyx- konsumtion / [ed] paula von Wachenfeldt, Klas Nyberg, Stockholm: Carlsson Bokförlag, 2015, p. 7-23Chapter in book (Other academic)
  • 108.
    Nyfeler, Judith Katharina
    Stockholm University, Faculty of Humanities, Department of Media Studies, Fashion Studies. Lucerne University, Switzerland.
    The Three Pillars of Sustainability: Juxtaposing two Swedish fashion companies and their corporate sustainability concepts2013Licentiate thesis, monograph (Other academic)
    Abstract [en]

    The fashion system has increasingly been imbued by ecology and sustainability. While in the recent years a lot on approaches to more sustainable consumption behaviour from the con- sumers’ side have been suggested, this study focuses on the very practice of how sustainabil- ity - in an applied matter - is realised within a fashion company. In this dissertation, two Swe- dish fashion brands, Nudie Jeans co and Filippa K, are being investigated and analysed due to their brand philosophies and concepts dealing with sustainability. If Nudie Jeans co’s first all- organic denim collection launched in Autumn 2012 or Filippa K’s emphasis to the longevity of clothing by classic shapes and plain colours; both ideas foster a slow fashion movement. One of this thesis’ implications is the fact, that the term sustainability is much more far- reaching and expansive as commonly defined. Also timelessness and tradition could be sus- tainable, if still taking care of environment and society. Finally, concepts of sustainability which are commonly not highlighted shall be identified and fill the yet existing gap. 

  • 109.
    Peters, Lauren Downing
    Stockholm University, Faculty of Humanities, Department of Media Studies, Fashion Studies.
    David Bowie Is2014In: Journal of Curatorial Studies, ISSN 2045-5836, Vol. 3, no 1, p. 139-143Article, book review (Other academic)
  • 110.
    Peters, Lauren Downing
    Stockholm University, Faculty of Humanities, Department of Media Studies, Fashion Studies.
    Exhibition Review: Stephen Burrows: When Fashion Danced, The Museum of the City of New York, March 22‒July 28, 20132016In: Fashion Practice: the journal of design, creative process & the fashion industry, ISSN 1756-9370, E-ISSN 1756-9389, Vol. 8, no 2, p. 335-338Article, book review (Other academic)
  • 111.
    Peters, Lauren Downing
    Stockholm University, Faculty of Humanities, Department of Media Studies, Fashion Studies.
    Faking It: Originals, Copies and Counterfeits, The Museum at The Fashion Institute of Technology New York, December 2, 2014 ‒ April 25, 20152016In: Fashion Theory: The Journal of Dress, Body and Culture, ISSN 1362-704X, E-ISSN 1751-7419, Vol. 20, no 3, p. 369-375Article, book review (Other academic)
  • 112.
    Peters, Lauren Downing
    Stockholm University, Faculty of Humanities, Department of Media Studies, Fashion Studies.
    Fashion or dress? Pedagogical issues in fashion theory2014In: Cuadernos del Centro de Estudios de Diseño y Comunicación, ISSN 1668-0227, Vol. 14, no 48, p. 113-127Article in journal (Refereed)
    Abstract [en]

    In this article, I plan to reflect on the pedagogical challenges I’ve faced in my first semester of teaching fashion studies material at Parsons, speaking specifically to the challenges I’ve overcome in leading my junior seminar, Supermodel: Beauty, Fashion, and Performance, and in devising a new undergraduate fashion theory elective. In doing so, I will provide an overview of Fashion Studies as a newly-emerging academic field and outline the reflections that other scholars have published thus far.

    While the aforementioned will serve as a broad foundation for my paper, my primary focus will be on my own experience. In contributing my perspective as a teacher of undergraduate MFA students at Parsons to this conversation, I will pose the following questions: What challenges do my students face in working within a discipline and in a manner that is so different from their own practice? What is the most effective way to introduce students to fashion theory and criticism? What issues are students most drawn to? And finally, how might classes such as mine influence students in reflecting on their own practice as designers? The purpose of this article will thusly be to foster a dialogue between Fashion Studies scholars as well as with other academics who work and research in interdisciplinary fields.

  • 113.
    Peters, Lauren Downing
    Stockholm University, Faculty of Humanities, Department of Media Studies, Fashion Studies.
    Fashion Plus: Pose and the Plus-Size Body in Vogue, 1986-19882017In: Fashion theory, ISSN 1362-704X, E-ISSN 1751-7419, Vol. 21, no 2, p. 175-199Article in journal (Refereed)
    Abstract [en]

    Between 1986 and 1988, American Vogue ran a series of advertorials entitled Fashion Plus. Documenting the mid-1980s explosion of designer-led plus-size fashion, the series offers a rare glimpse into an overlooked moment in the history of large-size dress; however, it also stands as a singular foray into plus-size fashion for Vogue-a periodical that marginalizes representations of non-normative bodies. While its mere inclusion within the pages of Vogue is historically significant, this article will shift its focus by examining the crucial role pose played in the advertorial's postmodern refashioning of the fat female body. While interrogating the concept of fashioning as a process that occurs at the intersection of text, image, body and garment, this article also considers how an embodied vernacular of fashion posing transformed the fat female body, making it fit for the pages of Vogue. Indeed, by striking identifiably modelesque poses, the models of Fashion Plus upset deeply entrenched norms of imaging the fat female body, while widening Vogue's notoriously narrow definition of beauty. Framing the plus-size body as a product of postmodern notions of identity construction, this article also reflects upon the relationship between dress, discourse and the fleshy body in the construction of identity.

  • 114.
    Peters, Lauren Downing
    Stockholm University, Faculty of Humanities, Department of Media Studies, Fashion Studies.
    Performing Vintage: The Cultivation and Dissemination of Vintage Sensibilities at the Brooklyn Flea2014In: Canadian Review of American Studies, ISSN 0007-7720, E-ISSN 1710-114X, Vol. 44, no 2, p. 214-239Article in journal (Refereed)
    Abstract [en]

    Vintageas a fashion term is difficult to pin down. While some scholars argue that vintage only applies to fashion items that are at least twenty years old, others argue that it is also an easily manufactured and commodifiable sensibility. This article offers a revised definition of vintage as performance and bridges the fields of fashion studies, cultural studies, and ethnography. Using the Brooklyn Flea in Brooklyn, New York, as my primary research site, I use interviews and in-depth ethnographic observation to provide a new framework through which we can come to understand the Brooklyn vintage phenomenon and observe an example of aesthetic renewal in a vibrant consumption landscape. I suggest that, through this case study and through the lens of performance, we can come to understand vintage as produced in interactions between cultural actors (principally the consumers and purveyors of vintage objects) and disseminated by street-style photographers, who spread images of the flea online to the virtual viewing public.

  • 115.
    Peters, Lauren Downing
    Stockholm University, Faculty of Humanities, Department of Media Studies, Fashion Studies.
    Utopia: Revisited: "Utopian bodies - fashion looks to the future" (Utopian Bodies - Fashion Looks Forward). Exhibition Center Liljevalchs, Stockholm, Sweden. September 25, 2015 - February 7, 20162016In: Fashion Theory: Dress, Body And Culture, Vol. 40, no 1Article, book review (Other academic)
  • 116.
    Peters, Lauren Downing
    Stockholm University, Faculty of Humanities, Department of Media Studies, Fashion Studies.
    You Are What You Wear: How Plus-Size Fashion Figures in Fat Identity Formation2014In: Fashion Theory: The Journal of Dress, Body and Culture, ISSN 1362-704X, E-ISSN 1751-7419, Vol. 18, no 1, p. 45-71Article in journal (Refereed)
    Abstract [en]

    This article examines the overlooked market of plus-size fashion and explores the ways in which the fashion industry neglects and marginalizes fat consumers. Faced with limited options in garments colloquially known as “plus-size” or “outsize” that are typically relegated to dark corners of clothing stores and are excluded from the pages of high fashion periodicals, the plus-size consumer lacks options in fashioning her self-identity. Under these circumstances, the role the fashion industry has played in further entrenching fat stigma in the collective consciousness and in abetting the processes of fat identity formation amongst plus-size consumers merits closer examination. Drawing upon the collected sartorial biographies of three self-identifying plus-size women, this article considers the ways in which fat identities are formed through the intimate practices of self-fashioning and via social channels such as shopping and fashion blogging, thereby bridging the fields of fat studies and fashion studies. It also takes into account issues of performativity and dress as a situated bodily practice. Through these case studies, the role the fashion industry plays in the processes of fat identity formation is brought to the fore, as are the complicated, creative, and sometimes subversive means through which fat women engage with plus-size fashion.

  • 117.
    Peters, Lauren Downing
    et al.
    Stockholm University, Faculty of Humanities, Department of Media Studies, Fashion Studies.
    Kurennaya, Anya
    Effortless consumption: The 'Anthropologie' of a brand-focused online shopping community2014In: Global Fashion Brands: Style, Luxury and History / [ed] Joseph H. Hancock, Gjoko Muratovski, Veronica Manlow, Anne Pierson-Smith, Intellect Ltd., 2014, p. 135-152Chapter in book (Refereed)
    Abstract [en]

    This article examines the dynamics of the brand-focused online community blog Effortless Anthropologie, devoted to the popular retailer Anthropologie, with particular emphasis on how brand values are created, espoused and disputed by its members in a dynamic and interactive online forum. Using relevant literature on the concept of brand community, the net is expanded to capture the activities of a community that exists primarily online. We use examples of posts and commenting activity to demonstrate that it is the existence of the blog that facilitates and maintains such a strong sense of community. This, along with the fact that the blog exists independently from the retailer that it values – that is, it is not a company blog – forces us to reconsider our concept of how brand communities are formed and maintained in the virtual realm. From this analysis, we can learn how brand communities are facilitated by blogs and how they take on a unique dimension online. Consumers use blogs like Effortless Anthropologie to find a community of like-minded users and be a part of a community existing outside of the retail sphere. Retailers and marketers might engage with or be aware of the sense of trust, bonding and loyalty that such an online community engenders.

  • 118. Pullen, Alison
    et al.
    Thanem, Torkild
    Stockholm University, Faculty of Social Sciences, Stockholm Business School.
    Tyler, Melissa
    Wallenberg, Louise
    Stockholm University, Faculty of Humanities, Department of Media Studies, Fashion Studies.
    Postscript: Queer Endings/Queer Beginnings2016In: Gender, Work and Organization, ISSN 0968-6673, E-ISSN 1468-0432, Vol. 23, no 1, p. 84-87Article in journal (Refereed)
  • 119. Pullen, Alison
    et al.
    Thanem, Torkild
    Stockholm University, Faculty of Social Sciences, Stockholm Business School.
    Tyler, Melissa
    Wallenberg, Louise
    Stockholm University, Faculty of Humanities, Department of Media Studies, Fashion Studies.
    Sexual Politics, Organizational Practices: Interrogating Queer Theory, Work and Organization2016In: Gender, Work and Organization, ISSN 0968-6673, E-ISSN 1468-0432, Vol. 23, no 1, p. 1-6Article in journal (Other academic)
  • 120.
    Riello, Giorgio
    et al.
    University of Warwick.
    McNeil, Peter
    Stockholm University, Faculty of Humanities, Department of Media Studies, Fashion Studies. University of Technology, Sydney.
    A Long Walk: Shoes, People and Places2011In: Shoes: A History from Sandals to Sneakers / [ed] G Riello and P McNeil, London: Berg Publishers, 2011, 1:2, p. 2-28Chapter in book (Other academic)
  • 121.
    Salti, Rafa
    Stockholm University, Faculty of Humanities, Department of Media Studies, Fashion Studies.
    Ethical Fashion Branding: Multiple Case Studies of Mission Statements and Fashion Films2017Student paper other, 20 credits / 30 HE creditsStudent thesis
    Abstract [en]

    This paper is an attempt to identify new ways to improve consumer’s response to ethical fashion branding through written mission statements and fashion films. It examines material by three fashion brands: H&M, Stella McCartney and People Tree. Additionally, it reviews and summarizes findings of previous literature in the field of ethical and sustainable fashion branding and builds a list of principal factors that play in the success of ethical fashion branding. The paper concludes with providing recommendations to improve the branding of each case study.

  • 122. Stavenow-Hidemark, Elisabet
    et al.
    Nyberg, KlasStockholm University, Faculty of Humanities, Department of Media Studies, Fashion Studies.
    Från kläde till silkesflor : Textilprover från 1700-talets svenska fabriker2015Collection (editor) (Other academic)
  • 123.
    Steorn, Patrik
    Stockholm University, Faculty of Humanities, Department of Media Studies, Fashion Studies.
    Att förändra bilden av sjukdomen, med hjälp av en kostym2013In: Från bögpest till tystnad: texter från bloggen / [ed] Christian A. Möllerop, Ulrika Westerlund, Johanna Wistedt, Stockholm: Riksförbundet för sexuellt likaberättigande (RFSL) , 2013Chapter in book (Other (popular science, discussion, etc.))
  • 124.
    Steorn, Patrik
    Stockholm University, Faculty of Humanities, Department of Media Studies, Fashion Studies.
    Curating Queer: Searching for queer desires and gender benders in Nationalmuseum, Stockholm2013In: ICOM España digital. Revista del Comité Español de ICOM, ISSN 2173-9250, no 8, p. 70-76Article in journal (Other academic)
  • 125.
    Steorn, Patrik
    Stockholm University, Faculty of Humanities, Department of Media Studies, Fashion Studies.
    Editorial2013In: Konsthistorisk Tidskrift, ISSN 0023-3609, E-ISSN 1651-2294, Vol. 82, no 3, p. 129-134Article in journal (Other academic)
  • 126.
    Steorn, Patrik
    Stockholm University, Faculty of Humanities, Department of Media Studies, Fashion Studies.
    Illustrationskonstens visuella kultur under 1800-talet2013In: Svensk illustration – en visuell historia 1900-2000 / [ed] Andreas Berg, Sara Teleman, Malmö: Arena , 2013Chapter in book (Other academic)
  • 127.
    Steorn, Patrik
    Stockholm University, Faculty of Humanities, Department of Media Studies, Fashion Studies.
    Med queer blick på modehistorien2013In: Dagens Nyheter, ISSN 1101-2447, no 23 decemberArticle, book review (Other (popular science, discussion, etc.))
  • 128.
    Steorn, Patrik
    Stockholm University, Faculty of Humanities, Department of Media Studies, Fashion Studies.
    Migrating Motifs and Productive Instabilities: Images of Fashion in Eighteenth-Century Swedish Print Culture2013In: Konsthistorisk Tidskrift, ISSN 0023-3609, E-ISSN 1651-2294, Vol. 82, no 3, p. 219-234Article in journal (Refereed)
  • 129.
    Steorn, Patrik
    Stockholm University, Faculty of Humanities, Department of Media Studies, Fashion Studies.
    Mode, illustration och livsstil: en kosmopolit på 1980-talet2013In: Svensk illustration: en visuell historia 1900-2000 / [ed] Andreas Berg, Sara Teleman, Malmö: Arena förlag , 2013Chapter in book (Other academic)
  • 130.
    Steorn, Patrik
    Stockholm University, Faculty of Humanities, Department of Media Studies, Fashion Studies.
    Mode, makt och män i Prousts Paris2013In: En plats i tiden: Föredrag och artiklar om Marcel Proust / [ed] Emi-Simone Zawall, Stockholm: Marcel Proust-sällskapet , 2013Chapter in book (Other (popular science, discussion, etc.))
  • 131.
    Steorn, Patrik
    Stockholm University, Faculty of Humanities, Department of Media Studies, Fashion Studies.
    Nakenheten som verktyg för självreflektion och samhällsprotest2013In: Dagens Nyheter, ISSN 1101-2447, no 11 februariArticle, book review (Other (popular science, discussion, etc.))
  • 132.
    Steorn, Patrik
    Stockholm University, Faculty of Humanities, Department of Media Studies, Fashion Studies.
    Patrik Steorn läser Laura Mulvey: Blickens erotiska fostran2013In: Tidskrift för Genusvetenskap, ISSN 1654-5443, E-ISSN 2001-1377, no 4, p. 58-62Article in journal (Refereed)
  • 133.
    Steorn, Patrik
    Stockholm University, Faculty of Humanities, Department of Media Studies, Fashion Studies.
    Queer in the museum: Methodological reflections on doing queer in museum collections2010In: Lambda Nordica: Tidskrift om homosexualitet, ISSN 1100-2573, no 3-4, p. 119-122Article in journal (Refereed)
    Abstract [sv]

    Under sommaren 2008 var Stockholm värd för Euro Pride och på flera ställen i Stockholms museivärld mötte besökare förkortningen "HBT" och ordet queer. Flera museer såsom Dansmuseet, Hallwylska museet, Historiska Museet, Moderna Museet och Nationalmuseum erbjöd queervisningar av sina permanenta samlingar medan exempelvis Armémuseum presenterade en tolkning av deras permanenta utställningar från HBT-perspektiv med hjälp av tillfälligt utplacerade texter och ytterligare andra institutioner, såsom Nationalmuseum, Polismuseet och Nordiska museet anordnade tillfälliga utställningar med HBT eller queer i de egna samlingarna som tema. Utställningen § 1, vars namn hänvisar till det första stycket i förklaringen om de mänskliga rättigheterna, var ett oberoende initiativ som förenade Nobelmuseet, Tekniska museet, Sjöhistoriska museet och Armémuseum på en utställningsyta där varje institution gjort var sin egen utställning som på olika sätt anknöt till HBT-historia eller allmänna reflektioner kring konstruktion av normer.

    Artikelförfattarens samlade intryck är dock att museernas aktiviteter inte uppnådde en normkritisk analys utan tenderade att befatta sig med perspektivet på ett relativt ytligt plan. Respektive museums egen roll i att producera och upprätthålla normer har fortfarande inte behandlats seriöst av dessa institutioner och riktlinjer som gäller museernas verksamheter har heller inte utvärderats i relation till normer när det gäller sexualiteter.  

    Artikeln är en kritisk diskussion om olika metodologiska aspekter av att använda sig av queer som ett perspektiv för att tolka och ställa ut museisamlingar. Två utställningar med HBT/queer perspektiv som visades i Stockholm under Euro Pride 2008 är fokus för artikelns analys. Nordiska museets fotoutställning "Visa dig!" visade bilder med heteronormativa och icke-normativa par ur museets stora samling av fotografier. "Queer. Begär, makt och identitet” var en utställning på Nationalmuseum som visade ett urval verk ur de permanenta samlingarna och diskuterade representationer av kön, samkönad lust och sexuell identitet. Artikelförfattaren var själv curator för denna utställning och bidrar därmed med personliga reflektioner kring de metodologiska utmaningar det innebär att omsätta ett abstrakt queerperspektiv i museal praktik.

    Exempelvis kan det finnas hundratals föremål med stor potential för queer tolkning eller med stark koppling till HBT-samhället gömda i ett enskilt museums samlingar utan att de går att hitta på grund av att kunskapsinsamlingen kring de samlade föremålen varit inriktad på till exempel kategorier som material, upphovsperson, proveniens. Samtidigt skulle införandet av queer tolkningar och HBT–berättelser i museernas klassificeringssystem inte var en tillfredsställande lösning eftersom det väcker frågor om hur och i vilka syften den insamlade kunskapen skulle kunna användas. Att införa queer som en kategori i en databas skulle dessutom gå emot hela begreppets innebörd. Att söka efter queer närvaro i en museisamling är alltså en metodologisk utmaning och artikeln diskuterar behovet av närmare undersökningar av hur museer samlar in föremål.

    Betydelsen av att tänka om själva idén om vad ett arkiv kan vara blir särskilt viktig när queer historia skrivs, vilket flera forskare inom queer studies diskuterar sedan några år. För att kunna berätta nya typer av historier behöver forskare och museer vända sig till andra typer av källor till information. Judith Halberstam pekar bland annat ut material som kan tyckas trivialt eller efemärt. Artikeln för fram att behovet av att upprätta alternativa arkiv inte kan överlåtas till offentliga institutioner, utan här behöver olika typer av HBT-grupper och queeraktivister också vara aktiva.

    Museer med ambitioner att vara queer måste titta på sin roll som institutioner, som producenter av makt och normativ mening. Museerna skulle kunna underlätta produktionen av queer tolkningar av deras samlingar genom innovativa utställningsidéer, nyskapande forskning och genom att uppmuntra oväntade och subversiva evenemang att ta plats i de egna lokalerna.

  • 134.
    Steorn, Patrik
    Stockholm University, Faculty of Humanities, Department of Media Studies, Fashion Studies.
    Staging masculinity and identity: Visual culture of naked men ca. 19002010In: Contemporary feminist studies and its relation to art history and visual studies: proceedings from a conference in Gothenburg, March 28-29, 2007 / [ed] Whitney Chadwick, Bia Mankell, Alexandra Reiff, Göteborg: Göteborgs universitet, 2010, p. 91-111Chapter in book (Other academic)
  • 135.
    Steorn, Patrik
    et al.
    Stockholm University, Faculty of Humanities, Department of Media Studies, Fashion Studies.
    Östlund, Michel
    Eliasson, Charlotte
    Ingenmansland2013In: Expressen, ISSN 1103-923X, no 15 aprilArticle in journal (Other (popular science, discussion, etc.))
  • 136.
    Thanem, Torkild
    et al.
    Stockholm University, Faculty of Social Sciences, Stockholm Business School.
    Wallenberg, Louise
    Stockholm University, Faculty of Humanities, Department of Media Studies, Fashion Studies.
    Just doing gender? Transvestism and the power of underdoing gender in everyday life and work2016In: Organization, ISSN 1350-5084, E-ISSN 1461-7323, Vol. 23, no 2, p. 250-271Article in journal (Refereed)
    Abstract [en]

    While previous research in organization studies has utilized transgender to show how gender is done, overdone and undone, this literature lacks empirical grounding, and the theoretical arguments dominating it tend to idealize the transgressive power of transgender while reducing transgender to hyperbolic drag and stereotypical passing. To further advance the understanding of transgender within and around organizations, this article presents a qualitative study from a Northern European country to investigate how male-to-female transvestites do and undo gender in everyday life and work. In contrast to extant research, we found that participants did transgender and undid gender by underdoing gender, that is, by combining feminine, masculine and ungendered practices and attributes in ways that made passing and drag insignificant. As transvestites simultaneously expressed masculine and feminine forms of embodiment, we argue that they may more obviously challenge, though not dismantle, dominant forms of gender and identity than suggested by previous accounts. We conclude by discussing broader implications for the understanding of gender, identity, power and resistance in organizations.

  • 137.
    Thanem, Torkild
    et al.
    Stockholm University, Faculty of Social Sciences, Stockholm Business School, Management & Organisation.
    Wallenberg, Louise
    Stockholm University, Faculty of Humanities, Department of Media Studies, Fashion Studies.
    Monstrous ethics2015In: The Routledge Companion to Ethics, Politics and Organization / [ed] Alison Pullen, Carl Rhodes, London: Routledge, 2015Chapter in book (Other academic)
  • 138.
    Thanem, Torkild
    et al.
    Stockholm University, Faculty of Social Sciences, Stockholm Business School.
    Wallenberg, Louise
    Stockholm University, Faculty of Humanities, Department of Media Studies, Fashion Studies.
    What can bodies do? Reading Spinoza for an affective ethics of organizational life2015In: Organization, ISSN 1350-5084, E-ISSN 1461-7323, Vol. 22, no 2, p. 235-250Article in journal (Refereed)
    Abstract [en]

    Recent attempts to develop an embodied understanding of ethics in organizations have tended to mobilize a Levinasian and “im/possible” ethics of recognition, which separates ethics and embodiment from politics and organization. We argue that this separation is unrealistic, unsustainable, and an unhelpful starting point for an embodied ethics of organizations. Instead of rescuing and modifying the ethics of recognition, we propose an embodied ethics of organizational life through Spinoza’s affective ethics. Neither a moral rule system nor an infinite duty to recognize the other, Spinoza offers a theory of the good, powerful and joyful life by asking what bodies can do. Rather than an unrestrained, irresponsible and individualistic quest for power and freedom, this suggests that we enhance our capacities to affect and be affected by relating to a variety of different bodies. We first scrutinize recent attempts to develop an ethics of recognition and embodiment in organization studies. We then explore key concepts and central arguments of Spinozian ethics. Finally, we discuss what a Spinozian ethics means for the theory and practice of embodied ethics in organizational life.

  • 139.
    Veerman, Nora
    Stockholm University, Faculty of Humanities, Department of Media Studies, Fashion Studies. Stockholm University, Faculty of Humanities, Centre for Fashion Studies.
    Fashioning Cultural Equity: A study of the materials, practices, products and consumers of fashion company Afriek2019Independent thesis Advanced level (degree of Master (Two Years)), 20 credits / 30 HE creditsStudent thesis
    Abstract [en]

    In today’s globalising world, cultural differences are often exacerbated and exploited for commercial purposes. Recently, various transnational fashion companies have arisen that aim to soothe such cultural tensions, establishing cross-cultural dialogue through the production of fashion. This thesis explores how one of such companies, Afriek, may bridge cultural differences through the production of garments made of African kitenge cloth, in a crosscultural collaboration between The Netherlands and Rwanda. In this study, the company is regarded not as a homogenous, profit-directed entity, but as a complex network of mutually affective human and non-human actors. Through a material culture study of kitenge and ethnographic interviews with Afriek’s team and consumers, their encounters and interactions are located. These are analysed with Homi Bhabha’s concepts of Third Space and cultural hybridity, concepts that challenge cultural binaries. In a transnational and cross-cultural journey past Afriek’s materials, practices, products and consumers, this thesis positions Afriek as a company that productively and affirmatively engages with existing cultural diversity through fashion.

  • 140.
    Vernier, Michelle
    Stockholm University, Faculty of Humanities, Department of Media Studies, Fashion Studies.
    Design i cirklar: En studie i cirkulär designs inverkan på klädindustrin.2018Independent thesis Basic level (degree of Bachelor), 20 credits / 30 HE creditsStudent thesis
  • 141.
    von Wachenfeldt, Paula
    Stockholm University, Faculty of Humanities, Department of Media Studies, Fashion Studies.
    Communicating Seduction: Luxury Fashion Advertisements in Video Campaigns2018In: Studies in Communication Sciences, ISSN 1424-4896, E-ISSN 2296-4150, Vol. 18, no 2, p. 353-363Article in journal (Refereed)
    Abstract [en]

    This study examines the different themes of communication that take place in video ad campaigns deriving from the French luxury fashion houses Louis Vuitton, Dior, Chanel, Cartier and Hermès. By using semiology as a method we were able to recognize the themes of adventure, seduction, love and play in the videos. This study explores also how the myth becomes an important meaning-maker of the luxury commodity and fills it with sensations and pleasure. Unlike all other ads, we could see that the meaning of luxury in the Hermès’ ones was not directly connected to the objects per se but to the experience of human senses in contact with nature. We could further conclude that the visual communication of the ads has no need to be logical as long as it can seduce with its positive signs. The object of luxury constitutes a strong communication tool helping the viewer to discover new places, to fall in love, to create magic and to experience the amusement of play. Embedded in recognizable social narratives, the objects in the moving image are provided with a seductive meaning able to support the eternal myth of luxury.

  • 142.
    von Wachenfeldt, Paula
    Stockholm University, Faculty of Humanities, Department of Media Studies, Fashion Studies.
    Fashioning the Self in Pre-Modern and Post-Modern Society2012In: Proceedings CIMODE 2012: 1º Congresso Internacional de Moda e Design / [ed] A. C. Broega, K. Castilho, J. Cunha, B. Providência, Guimarães: Universidade do Minho , 2012, p. 1362-1371Conference paper (Refereed)
  • 143.
    von Wachenfeldt, Paula
    Stockholm University, Faculty of Humanities, Department of Media Studies, Fashion Studies.
    I lyxens tjänst: Borgerliga värderingar och ideal i den moderna tiden2015In: Det svenska begäret: Sekler av lyxkonsumtion / [ed] Paula von Wachenfeldt, Klas Nyberg, Stockholm: Carlsson Bokförlag, 2015Chapter in book (Other academic)
  • 144.
    von Wachenfeldt, Paula
    Stockholm University, Faculty of Humanities, Department of Media Studies, Fashion Studies.
    Nya perspektiv på lyxkonsumtion2013Conference paper (Other academic)
  • 145.
    von Wachenfeldt, Paula
    Stockholm University, Faculty of Humanities, Department of Media Studies, Fashion Studies.
    The Language of Luxury in Eighteenth-Century France2013In: Fashion in Popular Culture: Literature, Media and Contemporary Studies / [ed] Joseph Hancock, Toni Johnson-Woods, Vicki Karaminas, Chicago: Intellect, University of Chicago Press , 2013, p. 207-Chapter in book (Refereed)
  • 146.
    von Wachenfeldt, Paula
    Stockholm University, Faculty of Humanities, Department of Media Studies, Fashion Studies.
    The Myth of Luxury in a Fashion World2018In: Fashion, Style & Popular Culture, ISSN 2050-0726, E-ISSN 2050-0734, Vol. 5, no 3, p. 313-328Article in journal (Refereed)
    Abstract [en]

    If luxury is more relevant today it is perhaps due to its ubiquitous presence. This study examines the meaning of luxury and the myth that surrounds the exclusive goods. How do we classify luxury in relation to fashion? And how can we recognize a luxury item when most of the houses apply the same selling strategies as the ones of the fashion industry? A semiotic analysis of three luxury houses helps us to map out this blurry landscape and this by looking first at the sociocultural signs that are characteristic of a luxury brand, and second, by exploring today’s representations of luxury brands on the market. Findings indicate that the luxury label today can in reality only be restricted to a few houses while the myth of luxury is still trying to blow life in the consumer’s mind.

  • 147.
    von Wachenfeldt, Paula
    Stockholm University, Faculty of Humanities, Department of Media Studies, Fashion Studies.
    The Taste of the Good Life: Representations of Luxury in Swedish Media2016In: Luxury: History, Culture, Consumption, ISSN 2051-1817, Vol. 2, no 2, p. 91-113Article in journal (Refereed)
    Abstract [en]

    Recognized as the welfare state with a protective social system based formerly on the idea of equality and concern, Sweden in the twenty-first century is undergoing a change in the attitude toward luxury consumption. This article examines the role of lifestyle magazines and social and visual media in creating idealized images that play on the idea of luxury. The discourse produced hereby indicates a remarkable change in the Swedish self-image and its approach to indulgence and excess.

  • 148.
    von Wachenfeldt, Paula
    et al.
    Stockholm University, Faculty of Humanities, Department of Media Studies, Fashion Studies.
    Nyberg, KlasStockholm University, Faculty of Humanities, Department of Media Studies, Fashion Studies.
    Det svenska begäret: Sekler av lyxkonsumtion2015Collection (editor) (Other academic)
  • 149.
    Wallenberg, Louise
    Stockholm University, Faculty of Humanities, Department of Media Studies, Fashion Studies.
    A decade of challenges and possibilities: Establishing fashion studies at Stockholm University2018In: International Journal of Fashion Studies, ISSN 2051-7106, Vol. 5, no 1, p. 169-180Article in journal (Refereed)
    Abstract [en]

    This article offers a recount of the establishment and the development of the Centre for Fashion Studies at Stockholm University, Sweden, inaugurated in 2006. The centre, which was initially located in conjunction with the Department of Art History and later at the Department of Media Studies, has often been referred to as the very 'first' fashion studies institution ever to be positioned within the university (and not within a design school context). The article reflects on the possibilities, challenges and difficulties that creating and developing a space for a 'new' field have entailed - both within the local context (in this case, a rather traditional university context) and within a larger scholarly context (which, to a large extent, is dominated by Anglo-American institutions). Where does one look for inspiration? With whom does one create alliances to be able to offer a solid fashion studies ground (when there is none)? Also, how does one create curricula that both include and deviate from the 'canon' of previous fashion studies so that the Anglo-American dominance becomes less prominent?

  • 150.
    Wallenberg, Louise
    Stockholm University, Faculty of Humanities, Department of Media Studies, Fashion Studies.
    Chanel och Dior lanserade kontrasterande kvinnoideal: Bronwyn Cosgrave, Vogue – Coco Chanel (Vogue Christian Dior)2014In: Respons : recensionstidskrift för humaniora & samhällsvetenskap, ISSN 2001-2292, no 2Article, book review (Other academic)
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