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Out of REACH: environmental hazards of cosmetic preservatives
Stockholm University, Faculty of Science, Department of Environmental Science.ORCID iD: 0000-0001-5900-221X
Stockholm University, Faculty of Science, Department of Environmental Science.ORCID iD: 0000-0002-9193-1147
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Number of Authors: 52024 (English)In: Human and Ecological Risk Assessment, ISSN 1080-7039, E-ISSN 1549-7860, Vol. 30, no 1-2, p. 122-137Article in journal (Refereed) Published
Abstract [en]

The EU Cosmetic Products Regulation requires neither environmental data nor environmental risk assessment for individual ingredients or finished cosmetic products. Instead, it relies on REACH to address environmental risks linked to cosmetic ingredients, including preservatives. We investigated how the environmental risks of cosmetic preservatives are managed by REACH. We identified preservatives of environmental concern and examined if any of these had been selected for Substance Evaluation, proposed for or identified as an SVHC, required authorization or were proposed for, or subject to, restriction under REACH. More than half of the preservatives approved under the Cosmetic Product Regulation, 70 of 137, were identified as being of environmental concern according to the criteria set in this study. Some of the approved preservatives were no longer produced or used in the EU due to their hazardous properties. However, they remained approved and may still enter the EU via the imported products. Our results also indicate that the environmental aspects of cosmetic ingredients, including preservatives, are not efficiently managed by REACH. Besides the known issues in REACH, we identified additional areas in the interface between REACH, CLP and the Cosmetic Products Regulation that call for improvement. Here, we provide practical suggestions in line with the Chemicals Strategy for Sustainability. If implemented, these measures would strengthen the protection of the environment from hazardous cosmetic ingredients.

Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
2024. Vol. 30, no 1-2, p. 122-137
Keywords [en]
CLP, REACH, cosmetic preservatives, environmental hazards, one substance - one assessment
National Category
Environmental Sciences
Identifiers
URN: urn:nbn:se:su:diva-225982DOI: 10.1080/10807039.2023.2301073ISI: 001137432000001Scopus ID: 2-s2.0-85181745587OAI: oai:DiVA.org:su-225982DiVA, id: diva2:1833211
Available from: 2024-01-31 Created: 2024-01-31 Last updated: 2024-09-05Bibliographically approved
In thesis
1. Inconsistencies and missing links in EU chemicals legislation
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Inconsistencies and missing links in EU chemicals legislation
2024 (English)Doctoral thesis, comprehensive summary (Other academic)
Abstract [en]

The EU chemicals legislation consists of the Regulation on Registration, Evaluation, Authorization, and Restriction of Chemicals (REACH) and the Regulation on Classification, Labelling, and Packaging of Substances and Mixtures (CLP), complemented by over fifty regulations and directives regulating specific uses and products. While regulating individual uses may offer a faster and simpler approach to protecting human health and the environment from hazardous chemicals, it can also lead to inconsistencies, such as gaps and overlaps. These inconsistencies may arise for chemicals with multiple uses, each governed by separate legislation.

The overall objective of this work was to understand the links between different pieces of EU chemicals legislation, to identify inconsistencies in the regulation of chemicals covered by multiple regulations and, in particular, to explore the implications of these inconsistencies for the protection of human health and the environment. First, we compared how antimicrobial substances are regulated when used in biocidal products compared to cosmetics (Paper I). The risk assessment of cosmetic preservatives focused solely on human health, omitting environmental data and environmental risk assessment. Once granted, the approval of cosmetic preservatives remained valid indefinitely until revoked by the European Commission, with no requirement to update the dossier based on new information. Based on these findings, we examined whether the approved cosmetic preservatives were hazardous to the aquatic environment or persistent, and if so, whether the risks were efficiently managed by REACH (Paper II). The analysis showed that environmental hazards of cosmetic preservatives and other ingredients are overlooked by the Cosmetic Products Regulation and might not be effectively managed by REACH. Next, the linkage between the CLP and other pieces of chemicals legislation was examined, mapping out regulatory obligations, arising from the new CLP hazard classes for endocrine disruption for human health (ED HH), endocrine disruption for the environment (ED ENV), PBT/vPvB, and PMT/vPvM (Papers III and IV). Meeting criteria for human health hazards under the CLP triggered more regulatory obligations across multiple regulations, compared to when fulfilling the criteria for physical or environmental hazards. Implementation of the new CLP hazard classes will require revision of regulations with existing risk management measures connected to the CLP hazard criteria.

The results and conclusions of the studies included in this thesis highlight the need for addressing the existing inconsistencies in order to strengthen the protection of human health and the environment. The provided recommendations address the need for harmonisation of the chemicals legislation and more efficient management of hazardous chemicals.

Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
Stockholm: Department of Environmental Science, Stockholm University, 2024. p. 27
Keywords
REACH, Cosmetic Products Regulation, Biocidal Products Regulation, CLP, new hazard classes, PBT/vPvB, EDC, PMT/vPvM, endocrine disruptor, Chemicals Strategy for Sustainability
National Category
Environmental Sciences
Research subject
Environmental Sciences
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:su:diva-227293 (URN)978-91-8014-707-1 (ISBN)978-91-8014-708-8 (ISBN)
Public defence
2024-04-29, De Geersalen, Geovetenskapens hus, Svante Arrhenius väg 14 and online via Zoom, public link is available at the department website, Stockholm, 10:00 (English)
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Supervisors
Available from: 2024-04-04 Created: 2024-03-11 Last updated: 2024-03-26Bibliographically approved

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Kättström, DianaRudén, ChristinaÅgerstrand, Marlene

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