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Unlocking the potential of post-consumer garments as a source of nanocellulose
Stockholm University, Faculty of Science, Department of Materials and Environmental Chemistry (MMK).ORCID iD: 0000-0003-3677-0085
Stockholm University, Faculty of Science, Department of Materials and Environmental Chemistry (MMK), Materials Chemistry.ORCID iD: 0000-0003-3036-8730
Stockholm University, Faculty of Science, Department of Materials and Environmental Chemistry (MMK).ORCID iD: 0000-0001-8909-3554
Number of Authors: 32024 (English)In: Cell Reports Physical Science, E-ISSN 2666-3864, Vol. 5, no 2, article id 101795Article in journal (Refereed) Published
Abstract [en]

Discarded garments contribute to an environmental crisis worldwide, prompting the development of new strategies for recycling and upcycling. In this work, we present the extraction of nanocellulose from textiles as an underexplored route for upcycling textile garments made of cotton. We summarize the current state of textile waste management worldwide, discuss strategies for extracting nanocellulose from cotton -based textiles, and outline the associated challenges and outlooks in this field. We further aim to highlight the opportunities and advantages of using cotton as a nanocellulose source and stimulate further research in this area.

Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
2024. Vol. 5, no 2, article id 101795
National Category
Textile, Rubber and Polymeric Materials
Identifiers
URN: urn:nbn:se:su:diva-228599DOI: 10.1016/j.xcrp.2024.101795ISI: 001199893300001Scopus ID: 2-s2.0-85185522789OAI: oai:DiVA.org:su-228599DiVA, id: diva2:1853777
Available from: 2024-04-23 Created: 2024-04-23 Last updated: 2024-07-04Bibliographically approved
In thesis
1. Discarded Textiles as an Underexplored Source of Cellulose Nanomaterials: Processing, Properties, and Applications in Lightweight Materials
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Discarded Textiles as an Underexplored Source of Cellulose Nanomaterials: Processing, Properties, and Applications in Lightweight Materials
2024 (English)Doctoral thesis, comprehensive summary (Other academic)
Abstract [en]

The valorization of discarded clothing offers significant economic, social, and environmental benefits by repurposing waste and presents a major opportunity to reduce landfill burden while providing an alternative to virgin raw materials. This thesis explores the potential of discarded garments as a source of cellulose nanomaterials (CNMs).

Sulfated cellulose nanocrystals (SCNCs) were extracted from cotton, polyester/cotton, and acrylic/cotton blends via sulfuric acid hydrolysis, with simultaneous recovery of the synthetic fibers. The properties of the highly pure extracted SCNCs were comparable to those from virgin cotton, despite the presence of textile dyes. A life cycle assessment (LCA) revealed a reduced environmental footprint for SCNC production using clothing rather than wood pulp as a feedstock.

An alternative route for CNC extraction was developed: citric acid esterification and partial hydrolysis followed by mechanical fibrillation. This yielded citrated cellulose nanocrystals (CitCNCs) with carboxyl and citrated surface moieties, high crystallinity, a needle-like morphology, and a surface charge of 0.9 mmol g−1. The LCA identified the use of citric acid as the environmental hotspot for optimization, highlighting the importance of such assessments for guiding sustainable development from the laboratory scale.

The versatility of cotton garments was explored by oxidizing them with NaClO and catalytic amounts of 2,2,6,6-tetramethyl-1-piperidinyloxy/NaBr, yielding TO-Cotton with a surface charge of 1.4 mmol g−1. The NaClO also degraded the cotton fabric dyes. TO-Cotton was treated in two ways to generate distinct CNMs. First, it was hydrolyzed with hydrochloric acid to obtain carboxylated cellulose nanocrystals (TCNCs) with an average surface charge of 1.1 mmol g−1 and a morphology similar to that of SCNCs. Second, TO-Cotton was mechanically fibrillated to yield carboxylated cellulose nanofibrils (TO-CNFs).

To investigate the influence of textile functionalization on the final properties of CNFs, cotton garments were cationized using (2,3-epoxypropyl)trimethylammonium chloride to form Cat-Cotton, which was further fibrillated to yield Cat-CNFs. Both Cat-CNFs and TO-CNFs showed high surface charge (>0.9 mmol g−1), small cross-section (<10 nm), and high aspect ratio (>35). TO-CNFs were formed in higher yields and with a greater surface charge compared to Cat-CNFs. However, the Cat-CNFs possessed a higher aspect ratio and maintained colloidal stability over a wider pH range. Both CNFs were used to prepare nanopapers and foams, whose mechanical properties depended on the type of CNF.

All three CNC types (SCNCs, CitCNCs, and TCNCs) were used to prepare anisotropic foams in combination with xanthan gum (XG). These foams exhibited minimal shrinkage after freeze-drying, high alignment, and excellent thermal stability. The CNC type influenced the foam properties: SCNC foams had the lowest water uptake, pristine CitCNC foams exhibited the best mechanical properties, and the incorporation of XG significantly enhanced the mechanical properties of TCNC foams.

This thesis demonstrates the feasibility and potential of using post-consumer cotton fabrics as a feedstock for CNM production, indicating the versatility of the resulting CNMs in various applications.

Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
Stockholm: Department of Materials and Environmental Chemistry, Stockholm University, 2024. p. 99
Keywords
nanocellulose, cellulose nanocrystals, textile upcycling, cellulose nanofiber, cryogel, nanopaper, lightweight material
National Category
Materials Chemistry
Research subject
Materials Chemistry
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:su:diva-231918 (URN)978-91-8014-861-0 (ISBN)978-91-8014-862-7 (ISBN)
Public defence
2024-09-19, Magnélisalen, Kemiska övningslaboratoriet, Svante Arrhenius väg 16 B and online via Zoom, public link is available at the department website, Stockholm, 13:00 (English)
Opponent
Supervisors
Available from: 2024-08-28 Created: 2024-07-04 Last updated: 2024-08-19Bibliographically approved

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Ruiz-Caldas, Maria-XimenaApostolopoulou Kalkavoura, VarvaraMathew, Aji P.

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