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Discarded Textiles as an Underexplored Source of Cellulose Nanomaterials: Processing, Properties, and Applications in Lightweight Materials
Stockholm University, Faculty of Science, Department of Materials and Environmental Chemistry (MMK).ORCID iD: 0000-0003-3677-0085
2024 (English)Doctoral thesis, comprehensive summary (Other academic)
Abstract [en]

The valorization of discarded clothing offers significant economic, social, and environmental benefits by repurposing waste and presents a major opportunity to reduce landfill burden while providing an alternative to virgin raw materials. This thesis explores the potential of discarded garments as a source of cellulose nanomaterials (CNMs).

Sulfated cellulose nanocrystals (SCNCs) were extracted from cotton, polyester/cotton, and acrylic/cotton blends via sulfuric acid hydrolysis, with simultaneous recovery of the synthetic fibers. The properties of the highly pure extracted SCNCs were comparable to those from virgin cotton, despite the presence of textile dyes. A life cycle assessment (LCA) revealed a reduced environmental footprint for SCNC production using clothing rather than wood pulp as a feedstock.

An alternative route for CNC extraction was developed: citric acid esterification and partial hydrolysis followed by mechanical fibrillation. This yielded citrated cellulose nanocrystals (CitCNCs) with carboxyl and citrated surface moieties, high crystallinity, a needle-like morphology, and a surface charge of 0.9 mmol g−1. The LCA identified the use of citric acid as the environmental hotspot for optimization, highlighting the importance of such assessments for guiding sustainable development from the laboratory scale.

The versatility of cotton garments was explored by oxidizing them with NaClO and catalytic amounts of 2,2,6,6-tetramethyl-1-piperidinyloxy/NaBr, yielding TO-Cotton with a surface charge of 1.4 mmol g−1. The NaClO also degraded the cotton fabric dyes. TO-Cotton was treated in two ways to generate distinct CNMs. First, it was hydrolyzed with hydrochloric acid to obtain carboxylated cellulose nanocrystals (TCNCs) with an average surface charge of 1.1 mmol g−1 and a morphology similar to that of SCNCs. Second, TO-Cotton was mechanically fibrillated to yield carboxylated cellulose nanofibrils (TO-CNFs).

To investigate the influence of textile functionalization on the final properties of CNFs, cotton garments were cationized using (2,3-epoxypropyl)trimethylammonium chloride to form Cat-Cotton, which was further fibrillated to yield Cat-CNFs. Both Cat-CNFs and TO-CNFs showed high surface charge (>0.9 mmol g−1), small cross-section (<10 nm), and high aspect ratio (>35). TO-CNFs were formed in higher yields and with a greater surface charge compared to Cat-CNFs. However, the Cat-CNFs possessed a higher aspect ratio and maintained colloidal stability over a wider pH range. Both CNFs were used to prepare nanopapers and foams, whose mechanical properties depended on the type of CNF.

All three CNC types (SCNCs, CitCNCs, and TCNCs) were used to prepare anisotropic foams in combination with xanthan gum (XG). These foams exhibited minimal shrinkage after freeze-drying, high alignment, and excellent thermal stability. The CNC type influenced the foam properties: SCNC foams had the lowest water uptake, pristine CitCNC foams exhibited the best mechanical properties, and the incorporation of XG significantly enhanced the mechanical properties of TCNC foams.

This thesis demonstrates the feasibility and potential of using post-consumer cotton fabrics as a feedstock for CNM production, indicating the versatility of the resulting CNMs in various applications.

Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
Stockholm: Department of Materials and Environmental Chemistry, Stockholm University , 2024. , p. 99
Keywords [en]
nanocellulose, cellulose nanocrystals, textile upcycling, cellulose nanofiber, cryogel, nanopaper, lightweight material
National Category
Materials Chemistry
Research subject
Materials Chemistry
Identifiers
URN: urn:nbn:se:su:diva-231918ISBN: 978-91-8014-861-0 (print)ISBN: 978-91-8014-862-7 (electronic)OAI: oai:DiVA.org:su-231918DiVA, id: diva2:1882230
Public defence
2024-09-19, Magnélisalen, Kemiska övningslaboratoriet, Svante Arrhenius väg 16 B and online via Zoom, public link is available at the department website, Stockholm, 13:00 (English)
Opponent
Supervisors
Available from: 2024-08-28 Created: 2024-07-04 Last updated: 2024-08-19Bibliographically approved
List of papers
1. Unlocking the potential of post-consumer garments as a source of nanocellulose
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Unlocking the potential of post-consumer garments as a source of nanocellulose
2024 (English)In: Cell Reports Physical Science, E-ISSN 2666-3864, Vol. 5, no 2, article id 101795Article in journal (Refereed) Published
Abstract [en]

Discarded garments contribute to an environmental crisis worldwide, prompting the development of new strategies for recycling and upcycling. In this work, we present the extraction of nanocellulose from textiles as an underexplored route for upcycling textile garments made of cotton. We summarize the current state of textile waste management worldwide, discuss strategies for extracting nanocellulose from cotton -based textiles, and outline the associated challenges and outlooks in this field. We further aim to highlight the opportunities and advantages of using cotton as a nanocellulose source and stimulate further research in this area.

National Category
Textile, Rubber and Polymeric Materials
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:su:diva-228599 (URN)10.1016/j.xcrp.2024.101795 (DOI)001199893300001 ()2-s2.0-85185522789 (Scopus ID)
Available from: 2024-04-23 Created: 2024-04-23 Last updated: 2024-07-04Bibliographically approved
2. Cellulose Nanocrystals from Postconsumer Cotton and Blended Fabrics: A Study on Their Properties, Chemical Composition, and Process Efficiency
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Cellulose Nanocrystals from Postconsumer Cotton and Blended Fabrics: A Study on Their Properties, Chemical Composition, and Process Efficiency
Show others...
2022 (English)In: ACS Sustainable Chemistry and Engineering, E-ISSN 2168-0485, Vol. 10, no 11, p. 3787-3798Article in journal (Refereed) Published
Abstract [en]

From manufacturing to disposal, the textile industry faces multiple challenges to achieve sustainability and reduce its environmental impact. This work investigates the properties and composition of cellulose nanocrystals (CNCs) extracted from clothing waste made of cotton fibers. We isolated CNCs from cotton, polyester/cotton, and acrylic/cotton waste fabrics through acid hydrolysis with sulfuric acid. A yield of 51-62 wt S4, ( co tt on basis) was obtained, and nearly all the polyester and acrylic libers contained in the initial fabrics were recovered in a convenient shape that could allow easier recycling. CNCs extracted from the selected fabrics showed high purity, similar structural, physical, and chemical characteristics, and their properties were comparable to those extracted from virgin sources, although their surface chemistry and elemental composition slightly differed. The chemical components in the waste fabrics and the extracted CNCs were evaluated through a nontarget chromatographic-mass spectrometric screening strategy. Both the recycled textiles and the CNCs contained hundreds of compounds common in postconsumer textiles, including some with health and environmental concerns. However, our initial findings show that their concentrations in the CNCs are negligible. Our results provide insights into the challenges associated with the use of cotton waste textiles for the extraction of cellulose nanoparticles, and into the potential applications of the extracted nanomaterials.

Keywords
textile waste, acid hydrolysis, cellulose nanocrystals, nontarget screening, polyester/cotton, acrylic/cotton, Green & Sustainable Science & Technology
National Category
Chemical Sciences Chemical Engineering
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:su:diva-204544 (URN)10.1021/acssuschemeng.2c00797 (DOI)000778745000039 ()2-s2.0-85126764053 (Scopus ID)
Available from: 2022-05-10 Created: 2022-05-10 Last updated: 2024-07-04Bibliographically approved
3. Citrated cellulose nanocrystals from post-consumer cotton textiles
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Citrated cellulose nanocrystals from post-consumer cotton textiles
Show others...
2023 (English)In: Journal of Materials Chemistry A, ISSN 2050-7488, E-ISSN 2050-7496, Vol. 11, no 13, p. 6854-6868Article in journal (Refereed) Published
Abstract [en]

We propose a new method for the extraction of cellulose nanocrystals (CNCs) from post-consumer cotton textiles through surface functionalization followed by mechanical treatment. Cotton-based textiles were esterified using an 85 wt% solution of citric acid at 100 °C, then further fibrillated in a microfluidizer. The final product, citrated cellulose nanocrystals (CitCNCs), was a dispersion of needle-like nanoparticles with high crystallinity. Up to 78 wt% of the cotton fabric was converted to CitCNCs that exhibited higher yields and a higher surface group content than CNCs extracted through H2SO4 hydrolysis, although CitCNCs showed a broader size distribution and decreased thermal stability. Experimental data supported by DFT calculations showed that the carboxyl groups on the CitCNC surface are bonded to cellulose by mono or diester linkages. An early-stage life cycle assessment (LCA) was performed to evaluate the environmental impact of using discarded textiles as a source of cellulose and analyze the environmental performance of the production of CitCNCs. Our work showed a significant reduction in the environmental burden of CNC extraction using post-consumer cotton instead of wood pulp, making clothing a good feedstock. The environmental impact of CitCNC production was mainly dominated by citric acid. As a proof of concept, around 58 wt% of the citric acid was recovered through evaporation and subsequent crystallization, which could reduce climate impact by 40%. With this work, we introduce a catalyst-free route to valorize textiles with the extraction of CitCNCs and how conducting LCA in laboratory-scale processes might guide future development and optimization.

National Category
Materials Chemistry
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:su:diva-215850 (URN)10.1039/d2ta09456h (DOI)000945404400001 ()2-s2.0-85150023395 (Scopus ID)
Available from: 2023-03-29 Created: 2023-03-29 Last updated: 2024-07-04Bibliographically approved
4. Anisotropic foams derived from textile-based cellulose nanocrystals and xanthan gum
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Anisotropic foams derived from textile-based cellulose nanocrystals and xanthan gum
Show others...
2024 (English)In: Carbohydrate Polymers, ISSN 0144-8617, E-ISSN 1879-1344, Vol. 338, article id 122212Article in journal (Refereed) Published
Abstract [en]

The upcycling of discarded garments can help to mitigate the environmental impact of the textile industry. Here, we fabricated hybrid anisotropic foams having cellulose nanocrystals (CNCs), which were isolated from discarded cotton textiles and had varied surface chemistries as structural components, in combination with xanthan gum (XG) as a physical crosslinker of the dispersion used for foam preparation. All CNCs had crystallinity indices above 85 %, zeta potential values below -40 mV at 1 mM NaCl, and true densities ranging from 1.61 to 1.67 g center dot cm(-3). Quartz crystal microbalance with dissipation (QCM-D) measurements indicated weak interactions between CNC and XG, while rheology measurements showed that highly charged CNCs caused the XG chains to change from an extended to a helicoidal conformation, resulting in changes the in viscoelastic properties of the dispersions. The inclusion of XG significantly enhanced the compression mechanical properties of the freeze-casted foams without compromising their thermal properties, anisotropy, or degree of alignment. CNC-XG foams maintained structural integrity even after exposure to high humidity (91 %) and temperatures (100 degrees C) and displayed very low radial thermal conductivities. This research provides a viable avenue for upcycling cotton-based clothing waste into high-performance materials.

Keywords
Nanocellulose, Cryogel, Lightweight material, Cotton, Textile upcycling, Surface functionalization
National Category
Textile, Rubber and Polymeric Materials
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:su:diva-231291 (URN)10.1016/j.carbpol.2024.122212 (DOI)001238383400001 ()38763714 (PubMedID)2-s2.0-85192020650 (Scopus ID)
Available from: 2024-06-19 Created: 2024-06-19 Last updated: 2024-07-04Bibliographically approved
5. Upcycling Textile Waste into Anionic and Cationic Cellulose Nanofibrils and Their Assembly into 2D and 3D Materials
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Upcycling Textile Waste into Anionic and Cationic Cellulose Nanofibrils and Their Assembly into 2D and 3D Materials
Show others...
(English)Manuscript (preprint) (Other academic)
Abstract [en]

The extraction of high-performance nanomaterials from waste offers an opportunity for valorization. Here, we present two methods for extracting cellulose nanofibrils (CNFs) from discarded cotton textiles. Post-consumer cotton cloths are chemically treated via two routes to facilitate fibrillation: cationization through etherification with (2,3-epoxypropyl)trimethylammonium chloride or TEMPO/NaBr-catalyzed oxidation of the C6 hydroxy group to obtain carboxylic groups. These functionalized cotton pulps are then fibrillated, producing Cat-CNFs and TO-CNFs respectively.

The physical and chemical properties of the extracted CNFs are evaluated and show that the functionalization route results in significant differences in their morphology and thermal stability. Both CNF types exhibit high surface charge (>0.9 mmol g−1), small cross-section (<10 nm), and high aspect ratio (>35). TO-CNFs have a higher surface charge density than Cat-CNFs, while Cat-CNFs exhibit a higher aspect ratio and colloidal stability in a broader pH range. Nanopapers and foams fabricated from these CNFs demonstrate high optical transmittance and haze, and mechanical properties comparable to those from wood-based CNFs. This work highlights the potential of post-consumer cotton textiles as a CNF source and emphasizes the influence of chemical treatment on the final properties of the fibers, CNFs, and resulting foams and nanopapers.

Keywords
Cotton, textile recycling, nanocellulose, nanofiber, foam, nanopaper
National Category
Materials Chemistry
Research subject
Materials Chemistry
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:su:diva-231925 (URN)
Available from: 2024-07-04 Created: 2024-07-04 Last updated: 2024-08-12

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