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Beef, butter, and broth: cooking in 16th-century Sweden
Stockholm University, Faculty of Humanities, Department of Archaeology and Classical Studies.ORCID iD: 0000-0003-4715-2338
Stockholm University, Faculty of Humanities, Department of Archaeology and Classical Studies, Archaeological Research Laboratory.
Stockholm University, Faculty of Humanities, Department of Archaeology and Classical Studies, Archaeological Research Laboratory.ORCID iD: 0000-0002-7076-6381
Number of Authors: 42025 (English)In: Archaeological and Anthropological Sciences, ISSN 1866-9557, E-ISSN 1866-9565, Vol. 17, no 2, article id 44Article in journal (Refereed) Published
Abstract [en]

We present the organic residue analysis of sherds of 50 cooking vessels from the 16th-century town of Nya Lödöse, Sweden. We confirm previous analyses showing that lipids are absorbed by glazed ceramic. By analyses of biomarkers and compound-specific stable carbon isotope analyses of fatty acids, we show that pipkins and pans were used for cooking ruminant carcass products, dairy, and plant foods. The dominance of ruminant fat and dairy reflects the importance of oxen and butter in the local food culture. The vessels included in the present study show some degree of specialized function. Pipkins had more traces of ruminant carcass fats compared to pans. Medium and large-sized pipkins contained a combination of animal fats and plant traces, possibly representing the preparation of stews. In contrast, the smallest pipkins showed no traces of plant foods and might have been used to melt animal fat. Pans had more traces of butter and had been exposed to higher temperatures, indicating frying. Flat pans were, to a higher degree, used for the frying of fish than the deep ones, but fish seem nonetheless to be underrepresented in the lipid residue data. According to zooarchaeological and historical data, fish, pork, and poultry were important parts of the diet, but as traces of these foodstuffs are scarce in the organic residue analysis, it may be inferred that they were prepared differently—boiled in metal cauldrons, roasted on metal spits over the open fire, or consumed in their dried, salted, or smoked state without further preparation.

Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
2025. Vol. 17, no 2, article id 44
Keywords [en]
Cooking practices, Dairy, Early modern, Food culture, Organic residue analysis
National Category
Archaeology
Identifiers
URN: urn:nbn:se:su:diva-239863DOI: 10.1007/s12520-024-02152-9ISI: 001403164700002Scopus ID: 2-s2.0-85217650816OAI: oai:DiVA.org:su-239863DiVA, id: diva2:1940525
Available from: 2025-02-26 Created: 2025-02-26 Last updated: 2026-04-06Bibliographically approved
In thesis
1. Recipes of Resistance: Food, inequality, and ideology in western Sweden 1473–1624
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Recipes of Resistance: Food, inequality, and ideology in western Sweden 1473–1624
2026 (English)Doctoral thesis, comprehensive summary (Other academic)
Abstract [en]

This dissertation explores foodways in the town of Nya Lödöse and at the royal castle of Älvsborg in western Sweden between 1473 and 1624 AD. Based on collaborative papers, the dissertation aims to outline an interdisciplinary approach to historical archaeology, integrating osteology, archaeobotany, stable isotope and organic residue analyses, and archival data. The theoretical framework draws on critical and postcolonial archaeology as well as on James C. Scott’s theories of everyday resistance.

The results show that the local food culture was a mix of locally available and imported foodstuffs, simultaneously rooted in traditional foodways and influenced by those of Hanseatic towns and Italian courts. American animals and plants were only introduced slowly and gradually. The local food culture not only reflected the inequalities of the time, but was also an arena where both ideology and resistance to it played out. Smuggling, poaching, and the subversive continuation of Catholic fasting can all be interpreted as forms of low-key resistance.

The dissertation consists of five papers. Papers I and III focus on identifying fish products in the zooarchaeological material and determining their origin by pairing stable isotope analysis (δ13C and δ15N) of the archaeological fish bones with the study of customs records. Paper II examines the introduction of turkeys (Meleagris gallopavo) into Sweden, utilizing zooarchaeological material and account books from royal castles and estates. Paper IV reconstructs cooking practices in Nya Lödöse, using organic residue analysis of ceramic cooking vessels and the study of account books from Älvsborg. Paper V explores the proportions of aquatic and terrestrial foods in the diet by applying δ13C and δ15N analyses of individuals buried at the Nya Lödöse cemetery, alongside evidence from the Älvsborg account books.

The findings of this dissertation demonstrate the potential of detailed interdisciplinary studies to achieve fine-grained interpretations about food culture, its socioeconomic dimensions, and its political significance.

Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
Stockholm: Department of Archaeology and Classical Studies, Stockholm University, 2026. p. 202
Series
Stockholm Studies in Archaeology, ISSN 0349-4128 ; 93
Keywords
archaeobotany, conspicuous consumption, critical archaeology, early modern, fish, food culture, historical archaeology, interdisciplinary, medieval, organic residue analysis, poaching, the Reformation, spices, stable isotope analysis, sugar, turkey, zooarchaeology
National Category
Archaeology
Research subject
Archaeology with General Specialisation
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:su:diva-254046 (URN)978-91-8107-584-7 (ISBN)978-91-8107-585-4 (ISBN)
Public defence
2026-06-05, G-salen, Arrheniuslaboratorierna, Svante Arrhenius väg 20 C, Stockholm, 13:00 (Swedish)
Opponent
Supervisors
Available from: 2026-05-11 Created: 2026-04-06 Last updated: 2026-04-24Bibliographically approved

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Maltin, EmmaIsaksson, Sven

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