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Recipes of Resistance: Food, inequality, and ideology in western Sweden 1473–1624
Stockholm University, Faculty of Humanities, Department of Archaeology and Classical Studies.ORCID iD: 0000-0003-4715-2338
2026 (English)Doctoral thesis, comprehensive summary (Other academic)
Abstract [en]

This dissertation explores foodways in the town of Nya Lödöse and at the royal castle of Älvsborg in western Sweden between 1473 and 1624 AD. Based on collaborative papers, the dissertation aims to outline an interdisciplinary approach to historical archaeology, integrating osteology, archaeobotany, stable isotope and organic residue analyses, and archival data. The theoretical framework draws on critical and postcolonial archaeology as well as on James C. Scott’s theories of everyday resistance.

The results show that the local food culture was a mix of locally available and imported foodstuffs, simultaneously rooted in traditional foodways and influenced by those of Hanseatic towns and Italian courts. American animals and plants were only introduced slowly and gradually. The local food culture not only reflected the inequalities of the time, but was also an arena where both ideology and resistance to it played out. Smuggling, poaching, and the subversive continuation of Catholic fasting can all be interpreted as forms of low-key resistance.

The dissertation consists of five papers. Papers I and III focus on identifying fish products in the zooarchaeological material and determining their origin by pairing stable isotope analysis (δ13C and δ15N) of the archaeological fish bones with the study of customs records. Paper II examines the introduction of turkeys (Meleagris gallopavo) into Sweden, utilizing zooarchaeological material and account books from royal castles and estates. Paper IV reconstructs cooking practices in Nya Lödöse, using organic residue analysis of ceramic cooking vessels and the study of account books from Älvsborg. Paper V explores the proportions of aquatic and terrestrial foods in the diet by applying δ13C and δ15N analyses of individuals buried at the Nya Lödöse cemetery, alongside evidence from the Älvsborg account books.

The findings of this dissertation demonstrate the potential of detailed interdisciplinary studies to achieve fine-grained interpretations about food culture, its socioeconomic dimensions, and its political significance.

Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
Stockholm: Department of Archaeology and Classical Studies, Stockholm University , 2026. , p. 202
Series
Stockholm Studies in Archaeology, ISSN 0349-4128 ; 93
Keywords [en]
archaeobotany, conspicuous consumption, critical archaeology, early modern, fish, food culture, historical archaeology, interdisciplinary, medieval, organic residue analysis, poaching, the Reformation, spices, stable isotope analysis, sugar, turkey, zooarchaeology
National Category
Archaeology
Research subject
Archaeology with General Specialisation
Identifiers
URN: urn:nbn:se:su:diva-254046ISBN: 978-91-8107-584-7 (print)ISBN: 978-91-8107-585-4 (electronic)OAI: oai:DiVA.org:su-254046DiVA, id: diva2:2050842
Public defence
2026-06-05, G-salen, Arrheniuslaboratorierna, Svante Arrhenius väg 20 C, Stockholm, 13:00 (Swedish)
Opponent
Supervisors
Available from: 2026-05-11 Created: 2026-04-06 Last updated: 2026-04-24Bibliographically approved
List of papers
1. Cod Heads, Stockfish, and Dried Spurdog: Unexpected Commodities in Nya Lödöse (1473–1624), Sweden
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Cod Heads, Stockfish, and Dried Spurdog: Unexpected Commodities in Nya Lödöse (1473–1624), Sweden
2018 (English)In: International Journal of Historical Archaeology, ISSN 1092-7697, E-ISSN 1573-7748, Vol. 22, no 2, p. 343-363Article in journal (Refereed) Published
National Category
Archaeology
Research subject
Osteoarchaeology
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:su:diva-254028 (URN)10.1007/s10761-017-0405-6 (DOI)
Available from: 2026-04-04 Created: 2026-04-04 Last updated: 2026-04-07Bibliographically approved
2. The introduction of the turkey (Meleagris gallopavo) in early modern Sweden – historical and zooarchaeological evidence of husbandry and consumption
Open this publication in new window or tab >>The introduction of the turkey (Meleagris gallopavo) in early modern Sweden – historical and zooarchaeological evidence of husbandry and consumption
2023 (English)In: Post-Medieval Archaeology, ISSN 0079-4236, E-ISSN 1745-8137, Vol. 57, no 1, p. -28Article in journal (Refereed) Published
Abstract [en]

In this paper we describe how and why turkeys were introduced to Sweden during the 16th century, and how the bird spread to different social groups in the 17th century. We present data from unpublished financial records and provide a compilation of all archaeological findings of turkeys from the geographical area of present-day Sweden. The results show that turkeys, first imported by Duke Karl of Sweden in the 1580s, had spread to the Swedish nobility by the 1610s. During the first decades of turkey husbandry in Sweden, turkeys were items of conspicuous consumption, used to show off during elite dinners and as gifts to peers and subsequently also to subordinates. During the 17th century, the bird was adopted by the urban upper middle class. Early modern Swedish turkeys were small, and likely less affected by selective breeding when compared to modern heritage-breed turkeys. 

National Category
History and Archaeology
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:su:diva-214806 (URN)10.1080/00794236.2022.2163736 (DOI)000913981100001 ()2-s2.0-85146648767 (Scopus ID)
Available from: 2023-02-15 Created: 2023-02-15 Last updated: 2026-04-06Bibliographically approved
3. Isotopic and historical evidence of regional stockfish trade in the Skagerrak during the 16th century
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Isotopic and historical evidence of regional stockfish trade in the Skagerrak during the 16th century
Show others...
2024 (English)In: Journal of Archaeological Science: Reports, ISSN 2352-409X, E-ISSN 2352-4103, Vol. 54, article id 104439Article in journal (Refereed) Published
Abstract [en]

Preserved fish was one of the main traded commodities in medieval and early modern times, and herring and cod were the socioeconomically most important species. This paper brings together stable isotope ratio analysis of archaeological cod bones and documentary data from customs records originating from the early modern Swedish town of Nya Lödöse (1473–1624 CE), shedding new light on the import of stockfish (dried cod). The combined results show that the stockfish imported to Nya Lödöse was mainly produced in the Danish town of Skagen, and the importance of Bergenfish was negligible. The Skagen fisheries targeted large gadids, skates, and flatfish and have hitherto been bypassed in archaeological research on the medieval and early modern fish trade. The findings of this research highlight the intense connectivity between communities across the Skagerrak and give an example of the comprehensive regional fish trade that existed alongside the long-distance trade. Another important conclusion is that the isotopic values for cod caught in the Skagerrak must be used with caution since this sea basin is populated by several different cod stocks. The North Sea cod population inhabits a large part of the Skagerrak, and cod bones with isotopic values consistent with the North Sea might thus have been fished in the Skagerrak. 

Keywords
Cod, fish trade, Skagen, Nya Lödöse, zooarchaeology, stable isotopes
National Category
Archaeology
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:su:diva-228078 (URN)10.1016/j.jasrep.2024.104439 (DOI)001188082900001 ()2-s2.0-85185446467 (Scopus ID)
Available from: 2024-04-29 Created: 2024-04-29 Last updated: 2026-04-06Bibliographically approved
4. Beef, butter, and broth: cooking in 16th-century Sweden
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Beef, butter, and broth: cooking in 16th-century Sweden
2025 (English)In: Archaeological and Anthropological Sciences, ISSN 1866-9557, E-ISSN 1866-9565, Vol. 17, no 2, article id 44Article in journal (Refereed) Published
Abstract [en]

We present the organic residue analysis of sherds of 50 cooking vessels from the 16th-century town of Nya Lödöse, Sweden. We confirm previous analyses showing that lipids are absorbed by glazed ceramic. By analyses of biomarkers and compound-specific stable carbon isotope analyses of fatty acids, we show that pipkins and pans were used for cooking ruminant carcass products, dairy, and plant foods. The dominance of ruminant fat and dairy reflects the importance of oxen and butter in the local food culture. The vessels included in the present study show some degree of specialized function. Pipkins had more traces of ruminant carcass fats compared to pans. Medium and large-sized pipkins contained a combination of animal fats and plant traces, possibly representing the preparation of stews. In contrast, the smallest pipkins showed no traces of plant foods and might have been used to melt animal fat. Pans had more traces of butter and had been exposed to higher temperatures, indicating frying. Flat pans were, to a higher degree, used for the frying of fish than the deep ones, but fish seem nonetheless to be underrepresented in the lipid residue data. According to zooarchaeological and historical data, fish, pork, and poultry were important parts of the diet, but as traces of these foodstuffs are scarce in the organic residue analysis, it may be inferred that they were prepared differently—boiled in metal cauldrons, roasted on metal spits over the open fire, or consumed in their dried, salted, or smoked state without further preparation.

Keywords
Cooking practices, Dairy, Early modern, Food culture, Organic residue analysis
National Category
Archaeology
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:su:diva-239863 (URN)10.1007/s12520-024-02152-9 (DOI)001403164700002 ()2-s2.0-85217650816 (Scopus ID)
Available from: 2025-02-26 Created: 2025-02-26 Last updated: 2026-04-06Bibliographically approved
5. Diet during the Reformation in Nya Lödöse (1473–1624): An isotopic and historical approach
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Diet during the Reformation in Nya Lödöse (1473–1624): An isotopic and historical approach
Show others...
2026 (English)In: Journal of Archaeological Science: Reports, ISSN 2352-409X, E-ISSN 2352-4103, Vol. 73, article id 105791Article in journal (Refereed) Published
Abstract [en]

This study employs an interdisciplinary approach to investigate diet at the Swedish town of Nya Lödöse (1473–1624 CE). The primary aim is to determine the proportions of aquatic and terrestrial foods consumed in the diet and to examine whether these proportions shifted after the Reformation in 1527. A secondary aim is to analyze variations in diet related to biological sex or social status. δ13C and δ15N stable isotope ratio analysis of bulk rib collagen from humans (n = 71) and fauna (n = 202) was conducted, and the results show the sampled individuals have similar isotopic compositions, with mean δ13C values of −19.9 ± 0.7‰ and δ15N values of 12.6 ± 1.0‰. These isotopic values suggest a diet rich in animal protein, mainly beef, with some consumption of aquatic resources. The Bayesian mixing model FRUITS was used to estimate the relative consumption of livestock, marine fish, and freshwater/pelagic fish. Modelling indicates an average aquatic protein intake of ∼ 15–16% for females and ∼ 20–24% for males. Comparing isotopic data from before and after the Reformation reveals no major changes in diet, although the post-Reformation period saw a small increase in fish intake in males and a diversification in diet in both sexes. The isotopic data suggest a slight but statistically significant difference in diet between males and females. Females had a less varied diet than males, with males having greater access to fish. After the Reformation, dietary differences between the sexes became marginally more pronounced.

Keywords
Diet, Stable isotopes, Reformation, Early modern, Gender, Medieval
National Category
Archaeology
Research subject
Scientific Archaeology
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:su:diva-254029 (URN)10.1016/j.jasrep.2026.105791 (DOI)001766914600001 ()2-s2.0-105038252037 (Scopus ID)
Available from: 2026-04-04 Created: 2026-04-04 Last updated: 2026-06-03Bibliographically approved

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